Processing

I am not a fan of processing, of “Photoshopping” to make an image look different from what you shot. HDR? Only when used with caution.

But sometimes processing works – when it enhances the look you were after in the first place.

Take this shot. A good image from a recent shoot:

Photo by Michael willems

But the rough grunge look I am after.. how do I enhance that? We found the juxtaposing of odd subject matter and the rough background and floor, but what else can we do to convey the feeling?

Well perhaps this is one of those times where some work may help. Split Tone 4 processing in Adobe Lightroom – a standard processing filter – gives me this:

Photo by Michael willems

Ah! In this case, that is exactly what I am after.

So the best thing is not to be dogmatic about “I don’t do this” or “I must do that”. Never say never.

 

 

Tripod notes

For long exposure images, you need a tripod. Images such as high quality (=low ISO) night shots, long exposures of rivers and waterfalls, and so on.

Contrary to what many believe, a tripod always makes images sharper, even at relatively fast shutter speeds. But you really need it when you exceed, roughly, 1/L second, where L is the length of your lens. So, 1/50th sec for a 50mm lens, or 1/200th sec for a 200mm lens.

Then there are three types of tripod:

  1. Cheap throw-away $50 tripod. A good option for occasional use, or where you may lose, forfeit or forget the tripod, such as while travelling, Light, but not good quality.
  2. Good studio tripod – maybe $200, These are sturdy – but heavy.
  3. High end sturdy-but-light carb0n fibre tripod – up to $1,000 or more. These are light yet sturdy: a great choice for on the road. Costly but it will last you decades.

A good tripod is a worthwhile investment, as you will see when you start actually using it. Ask Santa for one, perhaps?

 

Establishing Shot

Tip: When you shoot an event, shoot an “establishing shot” that shows where the event was held.

Like this:

You can take the shot afterward, or another day – but never start your pictures “in the middle” without showing context.

This will make your event shoots more like rapportage – a story.

 

 

Of mice and men

That above-mentioned book, by Steinbeck, was challenged many times for its alleged vulgarity. As was “Lady Chatterley’s Lover” by D.H. Lawrence. As was “Ulysses” by James Joyce. And the list goes on: many works of art, visual and written, have been seen by the narrow-minded as vulgar.

As was mine today.

I do not of course want to put myself in the same category as those giants, but nevertheless the effect of such narrow thinking is still here. You see, today I was banned from Facebook for 24 hours (so far – it could get worse) for posting an image, in a closed, secret, invitation-only group for professional photographers. An image just like this one, from the same shoot:

Model Kim by Michael Willems

I see this:

Ever noticed that when someone says “Policy”, something bad follows, that you cannot argue with?

Now yes, I do know the Facebook terms of use. In keeping with the 1950s morality that rules much of the religious south, they say there must be no nudity.

That would exclude much renaissance art, of course. But the restriction is not a big deal in practice for images – the way I look at it, nudity must involve something other than arms, legs or shoulders.

And yet I was banned. In a very worrying process: there is no recourse, no debate, no indications of who complained (in a closed secret group like that, the way to get banned is if someone “reports” your image as wrong).

This process is wrong because:

  • As said, is no debate or recourse, no-one to talk to.
  • There is no indication of who your secret accuser is.
  • This process of “report and we basically ban if it offends anyone” drags everything down to the lowest common denominator. Another group I used to be on used to ban people for showing tattoos, since the Lord, in the Bible, apparently prohibits them. This is 2011 USA, not 1500 Europe or Saudi Arabia.
  • Nudity is not wrong! it is beautiful. Violence is wrong – and yet that is allowed all over the place.
  • Not  that there was, in my opinion, nudity here – if even implied nudity is nudity, then heck, we might as well veil our women.
  • Facebook is an important part of a photographers’ business. If Facebook has the right to cancel or ban people with no due process of any sort, that gives them a worrying amount of monopoly power. And absolute power, as we know, corrupts.

But above all – censorship does not work. The people on the closed group all wanted to know more, and all headed to my Tumblr site, which is not run by mice, but by men. And the 150 people in that group can no longer see my image on Facebook, but the many thousands of readers here can now all see it.

 

The Gost of Parties Past

A persistent question I hear: “what about the unsharpness that occurs when you shoot using your famous recommend 400-40-4 rule“?

As said before. Yes – you may get some unsharpness, especially in the shape of ghosting, like in this shot – look at the hand:

Fair enough. BUT….

  1. Motion blur occurs mainly in the “background” area, where the flash is not lighting your subject. Else it is just a little “ghosting”.
  2. It’s only when there’s movement, really;
  3. Key point: it is still better than a badly lit image!
  4. And especially – it depends on your lens too. Wider is better.

The shot above was 1/40th second (or course) at a recent event shoot with the 70-200mm IS lens. When I use a wide lens, this hardly happens – see here the 35mm (on a full frame camera, so this would be a 24mm lens on  a crop sensor camera):

Santa Kiss (Photo: Michael Willems)

So do not hesistae – you can shoot at slow shutter speeds.


Images taken at f/4, 1/40th second, 800 ISO – it was darker than usual, so an increase to 800 ISO was warranted to keep the background bright enough. This also gave my flash more durability and power.

Don’t overlight

A very common mistake of a less experienced photographer is to “over light” the subject of the image. Sometimes less is better. Like here:

Michael Willems, Self-portrait

So for many portraits and creative shots I recommend you do not start with throwing light everywhere. Start with dark. Then add light -and colour- where you want it, bit by bit.

So that is why…

  • We avoid white studios and backdrops.
  • Or we use black reflectors to eat up light.
  • And we set our ISO/Aperture/Shutter to kill ambient light.
  • And we use softboxes, grids, snoots, and gobos, not just umbrellas.

If you think about these things, your creative images will be better – I guarantee it.

 

TTL Flash and Batteries

A couple of days ago, a reader asked me this:

I did your flash course about a month ago and enjoyed it so much, I actually bought a flash 😀  I got the 430EX II.  I do have a question about it.  I used it this past weekend doing some Christmas photos and I found that I just ran through batteries REALLY fast.  I’m wondering why.  I thought that the battery life would be longer than an hour or so (continuous shooting but I had it set to ETTL which I thought would adjust for my lighting).  Do I need to set the flash in some way?  Am I firing too high?  I just pulled it out of the box and started using it and made no adjustments and I am wondering if that is my problem.  I used Energizer rechargeable batteries, that were fully charged.  In total I took about 650 photos (was doing shoots for different families) and went through three changes of batteries.

Well… I would say that is roughly about the expected battery life for a shoot where you use the flash at high power. An hour of non-stop shooting takes a lot of power, so you need to carry lots of batteries.

If you had a 580EX, it has twice the power, if you should need it – but it can take an optional battery pack. Whether this warrants the price difference I am not sure: this is a decision only you can make.

You are using your flash right. And the mode you use your flash in makes no difference to battery life: after all, whether you set the flash power level (“M” on the back of the flash) or whether you let the camera do it (“ETTL” on the back of the flash), it’s still going to be the same power level!

So what does affect the power level the flash needs to emit? Factors include:

  1. The size and reflectivity of the room, if you are bouncing your flash. A dark high ceiling eats power; a small room with white ceilings and walls reflects more, so needs less flash power.
  2. Or if you are shooting direct, which I hope you are not, then the zoom angle of your lens and the proximity to the subject determine power needed.
  3. ISO. The higher the ISO, the less power the flash needs. (Set it to at least 400 for indoors flash – often, you may need 800).
  4. Aperture – the smaller the “f-number”, the longer your flash will last. Shoot at f/4 if you can, and if your subjects are in one plane).

So you can help the flash along by bouncing wisely, increasing ISO, and decreasing the “F-number”. But in essence, yes, a flash will use batteries – which is why you (a) use rechargeables, and (b) carry many of them.

 

Give the gift…

….of learning.

Wherever you do it, learn, and encourage others around you to learn also. In photography more than in any other endeavour, you have to keep learning. And I can help.

Here’s one way: buy a Seasonal Gift for a loved one. You can do this at the special December discounted price – 10% off the normal $95 hourly rate. Two or three hours, or a ten-pack or twenty-pack. Whatever you need.

You get a personalized certificate emailed to you, like this:

…which you then print and put under the tree, or whatever your gift-giving tradition may be. Done – and bonus: you avoid the mall.

 

Lightroom 3.6 is out

…and I think that if you are a Lightroom user, you should upgrade now. New cameras supported and a number of bugs fixed – Adobe has details on this blog.

If you are not a Lightroom user, I hope you are at least an Aperture user.

And if you are neither, then you probably should be. Lightroom has saved me up to 80% of my previous post-production time. ‘Nuff said.

 

To keep in mind these festive days:

Lights are cool, especially when you throw them out of focus.

Like in this snap from the other night – most people’s nightmare, my happiness:

Microphone (Photo: Michael Willems)

Look at the out-of-focus lights in the background. Nice?

Surely for this kind of shot you need an f/1.4 lens?

Nope. I shot that at f/4 (you can see the shapes are not quite round: with a wide-open lens they would have been).  The reason I got the blur is that I was close – very close.

So – open your lens, put lights in the background, and get close.