I did a few more booths yesterday. Fun as before.
But not simple! This one took 45 minutes to set up, in a restaurant. Setup includes things like computer, printers, USB hubs, connected camera, backdrop, props, pro flashes, and much more:
Here’s the picture I produced and printed on the spot for everyone, except of course this sample is with my pictures, not my clients’:
Additional to that, my clients get the electronic files, as well. And a web site to look at them on. And I brought an assistant, who is a talented photographer himself.
Why this note? Because I realize how this is now an entirely new photography market. It’s got critical mass now. And it’s fun.
But before you take it on yourself, remember that it’s a) a lot of work, and I mean a lot, and b) complicated technically, and that c) it needs real photography- and especially people-skills. Maybe easier just to hire me: I am available for booths!
Today at Allan Gardens in Toronto, I was thirsty. But I was also shooting.
And I carried a polarizer for my lenses. This is without a polarizer:
Another pair. With:
You see the difference, I hope. A ;polarizer takes away reflections from non-metallic surfaces.
Two studio strobes. Computer, with special software. Long tether cable. Two,printers in a pool. USB hub and other tech goodies. Graphic design. Fun props.
That’s how you do a photo booth, so that’s what I did for last night’s wedding, in a reception hall, outside the ballroom. Lots of fun was had, and lots of prints were handed out:
If you’re having some kind of event, check me out. It’s not costly (around $300 for a two hour booth, say, including a pro photographer, travel, all euiopment use, custom template design, and professionally made “made on the spot” 4×6 glossy prints. Going home with a fun picture makes the evening’s memories so much more “real” for the guests, and having a booth like this encourages people to have fun.
FROM SEVEN YEARS AGO: What ISO setting to use? High is good for shooting without blur or shooting in the dark but gives you noise (“grain”). What is optimal?
The following may help.
If you do not use AUTO ISO, my rule of thumb for starting points is:
- Outdoors, or when you are using a tripod: 200 ISO
- Indoors: 400 ISO (whether or not you are using flash)
- Problem light, such as museums or hockey arenas: 800 ISO
You can vary from there of course, but you will not be far off.
Here’s an 800 ISO handheld image (200mm, non-stabilized lens). It won me a media award:
TODAY: so what has changed? Only that you can now shoot, on a modern camera, at higher ISOs before you start no notice grainy noise. What worked then works now—but you can now go higher, sometimes much higher, without noticeable noise. Life is good.