Tapetum lucidum

Cats do not usually have that annoying “red-eye” effect…

…but they do have green-eye (or white-eye, blue-eye: anything but red.) Why?

Because they have a layer of reflective cells, right behind the retina. The “tapetum lucidum” (bright carpet) helps them make the most of whatever little amount of light there may be, as they hunt for mice in the pitch dark desert. It is because of the tapetum lucidum that cats can see more than humans in the dark.

Here’s a close up:

So that’s why cats have “green-eye” instead of red-eye, when you shine a light (like a flash) into their eyes. And it is especially in the dark, when their eyes are open to the fullest extent (when, as you see, they have huge pupils), that this shows.

Note that Lightroom’s “red eye removal” tool does not work on green-eye. Best to avoid it in the first place, then; and the way to avoid it is to avoid shooting with the flash near the lens, especially in the dark. No pop-up flashes for kitty!

 

Sic transit gloria mundi

Thus passes worldly glory… we are here for a limited time. Hence, make the most of it while you can. And especially, make photos. Or better, have them made, by someone who does it for a living.

This kid’s mom is a very good photographer, and I shot her boy with her yesterday:

(As usual, I used an off camera flash, and the speed was the usual “outdoors starting point” of 1/250 sec at 100 ISO; the aperture needed to match this was f/4.5, which also gave me the blurred background I wanted.)

I often hear “photography is dead”, “from here on, we are all just doing iPhone snapshots”, and so on. But looking at these, do you believe that?

I am sure that there will always be a market for great photos, photos that this young man will treasure when he is my age. An iPhone cannot give you blurred backgrounds, sharp images, lens choices, or the use of flash.

For this image we want a dark background to get saturated colour. That is the 1/250 sec at 100 ISO and f/4.5.

Then for the subject we want a flash: after all, “bright pixels are sharp pixels”.

To be bright enough, the flash was set to half power shooting through an umbrella, so:

A single speedlight is enough in this kind of light. If we had been in the bright sun, the speedlight would have to be very close and/or unmodified.

In any case: please have images like this made, or learn how to make them. After all, you can never travel back in time to do it over again.

Tomorrow, a special technique you can use when you have to shoot a subject in the bright sun.

Learning Options

More and more, I think of how to best convey my knowledge. Everyone can learn photography, and preserving moments in one’s life is so important that everyone should. My mission is to help you learn. And if you are a working pro, my mission is to fill gaps and to teach you modern techniques like flash, video on your DSLR, studio lighting, and so on.

I do this blog, and its daily posts, for you for free, so perhaps you will forgive me for once for going all commercial on you. After all, it is to help you by facilitating learning.

So—how?

First, there are the e-books, of course (http://learning.photography/collections/books). I am proud of them: they condense 10 years of teaching into five books (book 6 is on its way, and it is the largest one yet).

These are, if I say so, very well thought out, well written and well illustrated, long (all over 100 pages, some much more), and easy to use (simple PDFs which you can put on all your devices without hindrance, or even print: a license for that is included).

But learning is best done by adding personal training. You can do that at Vistek, where I am due to teach some more courses next month, and at Sheridan College, where I teach regular evening courses. But best of all, you can do it as private or semi-private courses. See http://learning.photography/collections/training — and those are starting points; in fact if you come to me we will fine-tune the course to your exact needs. From one two-hour session to a full multi-0week course with assignments and review.

So here’s a few suggestions:

  • Before the festive season, learn to do it properly. Reserve your photography courses now: there is limited space and prices will increase before November. If you book now, you will get the old price, regardless of when you take the course.
  • Better still: reserve your course before November, and receive an e-book of your choice free of charge.

Also, think of others around you who want to learn photography:

  • Buy a Gift Certificate for one or more courses. These are NOW available! They look good, and again, if you buy the certificate now you can take the course any time in the future. Click here to see/order your certificate.

  • Gift the e-books. Nothing better to go with camera gifts than e-books that explain how they work and how best to use them. Books are available as a download link on a certificate, or on a DVD for immediate reading.

 

So as you see, there’s plenty of options for you and your loves ones to learn.

Have needs that are not met by the above? Then call me (+1 416-875-8770), email me (michael@michaelwillems.ca) or contact me any other way you like, and let’s discuss.

 

Manual or TTL?

When making flash pictures, your camera will be on manual mode—I hope so, anyway. It’s the way to go. This means you set ISO, aperture and shutter yourself.

But your flash does not need to be on manual. That is to say, flash power can still be metered and be adjusted by the camera, automatically. We call this “TTL” (Through The Lens metering). And TTL can work even when the camera itself is on manual.

When your flash is in TTL mode, the back looks something like this:

You see TTL, ETTL, TTL-BL, i.e. something containing the letters TTL. This means the flash power is adjusted automatically by the camera. If you are close to something, the flash will fire at low power; if you are far away, a high power flash will be emitted. Magic!

The alternative is that you set the flash power. Manual flash, in other words. Press the MODE button on the back of the flash and set it to Manual:

In the photo above, the flash is set to half power (1/2). It could also be set to full power (100%, or 1/1), or to quarter power (1/4), or one eight power (1/8), one sixteenth (1/16), and so on; or to some level in between.

Try this now. Set your camera to manual mode, 1/40 second, 400 ISO, f/4. Now turn on your flash and set it to manual, and set it to 1/64 power. Using the viewfinder, take a photo. Check the photo: You will probably be hard pressed to see the flash, especially if your subject is far away.

Now set it to full power (1/1, or 100%). Do the same again. Whew, probably a grossly overexposed picture!

But you probably noticed something else. You did not see the flash through the viewfinder. “Did it work?”, you may well have asked. That is because when the flash is on manual, it fires just once, at the power level you set. You do not get the metering pre-flash that it uses when set to TTL mode (a flash at 1/32 power that is used to determine the needed power level). And that preflash is the one you can see through the viewfinder. The actual flash you cannot see!

Now, an exercise.

  1. Find an object to photograph. With the camera set as before, and the flash on MANUAL, find the correct power level for a good picture. Aim the flash straight ahead for this exercise.
  2. Now move 40% farther from the object. E.g. if your original distance was one metre, make it 1.4 metres. Or if you were 4 feet away, make it 5 feet 7 inches (that is 40% farther than 4 feet).
  3. Now find the correct power level for this picture. How much more power did you need? And (an advanced question for mathematicians): why? (Hint: it’s actually 41.4% farther).

Have fun.

 

Easy way out?

The Easy Way Out Is Not The Right Way.

I just read a post on a Facebook group from a photographer who is about to shoot portraits at a wedding, in a photo booth. She has two softboxes, two flashes, and a camera and a few triggers, and her question was basically “I have no idea what to set the camera and all these other things to, and it is so confusing”.

This is a good example of trying to take the easy way out, and it is seldom a good way. Things do not come that easy. Her question sounds to me like “I bought an airplane and I need to fly it to Sydney but I have no idea what all these meters and levers and dials do, but I don’t want to read a book”. This sounds almost insulting to those of us who did take the trouble to actually learn stuff.

Guess what: you will have to read a book, and take some lessons.  Trying to shoot professionally while not knowing even the basic facts gives photographers a bad name.

I see this in students sometimes: the “but but but syndrome”, I like to call it. “I can’t learn this”. “Yes you can”. “But but but…”, and every further argument or fact or attempt to help is answered by a “but but but”. This is someone who “just wants it to be easy”.

Well, guess what. Yes, you can learn this. Everyone can. But yes, you will need to learn things, like the workings of aperture, shutter, and ISO; the inverse square law; flash power settings; shutter limitations when using flash; balancing ambient and flash; how modifiers work; and a whole lot more. Just like to fly an airplane, you do need to know how all the levers and handles and switches work.

B737 flight deck

The good news: flash is simpler than a B737 flight deck.

The bad news: you do have to learn it, and some of the theory behind it. Here are the easy ways:

  • Go to http://learning.photography/collections/books and buy the Pro Flash Manual, and if necessary, the “Mastering Your Camera” manual. These are non-DRM PDF files, i.e. you can read them on any computer, pad, phone or similar, and you can carry them with you for convenience. They will teach you everything, There is no excuse for “not knowing things”.
  • Then take a course (email me on michael@mvwphoto.com to arrange a date/subject).
  • Read this daily blog, here on www.speedlighter.ca
  • Then do all the exercises mentioned in the above resources.

“But I don’t learn that way; I don’t learn from reading. I need to be hands on.”

Yeah, sure, and the books are full of practice. But just like Pythagoras’s Theorem, Shakespeare, Brain Surgery, or Quantum Electrodynamics, it does start with reading. Sorry. The cold, hard, realities of life. trust me on this: I know how people learn. You will learn this.

“But I don’t do math.”

Some minimal math is needed, just like when you go to your local supermarket. When you hand the cashier a $100 note for a quart of milk and she hands you back 23 cents, you do not say “that’s OK, because I don’t do math”, do you? No—you smile at her, hold out your hand insistently, and say “and the rest?”

“But my friend just presses buttons.”

Sure, I can come set up your camera and flashes and you can just press buttons, Sears “minimum wage” style. But what will you do when something goes wrong? Or the batteries run out? Or you need to change cameras? Or you need to shoot in a different room? You need to know what you are doing.

And by the way, it is not confusing. Here, then, since you asked:

  • Camera on manual exposure mode (“M”).
  • Set it to 200 ISO, 1/125 sec, f/8. (no auto ISO!)
  • Flashes on manual mode, 1/4 power.
  • Picture too dark? increase flash power or bring flashes closer to subject. Picture too bright? decrease flash power or move flashes away from subject.
  • If you have these settings, then trigger on camera is on TRANSMIT/REMOTE; triggers on flashes are on RECEIVE/LOCAL.

That’s all. Not complicated at all. But to see that it is not complicated, and to see why I recommend those particular settings, you do need to know the background. Otherwise flashes will always seem like that B737 flight deck.

PS: the photographer who asked the question did, I am sure, do lots of re4search. I am arguing not against her, but against other who do not do the research. All too common.