FROM SEVEN YEARS AGO: What ISO setting to use? High is good for shooting without blur or shooting in the dark but gives you noise (“grain”). What is optimal?
The following may help.
If you do not use AUTO ISO, my rule of thumb for starting points is:
- Outdoors, or when you are using a tripod: 200 ISO
- Indoors: 400 ISO (whether or not you are using flash)
- Problem light, such as museums or hockey arenas: 800 ISO
You can vary from there of course, but you will not be far off.
Here’s an 800 ISO handheld image (200mm, non-stabilized lens). It won me a media award:
TODAY: so what has changed? Only that you can now shoot, on a modern camera, at higher ISOs before you start no notice grainy noise. What worked then works now—but you can now go higher, sometimes much higher, without noticeable noise. Life is good.
Can you do anything worthwhile with just one flash?
Sure you can. This, of Sheridan student Steph, is a single flash, off camera, without softbox or umbrella, but fitted with a 1/4″ Honl Photo grid::
1/125 sec, f/8, 100 ISO (the studio settings); flash at 1/4 power with grid.
Learn to take your flash off camera and have fun!
On the BBC news front page recently:
You will notice the flash warning. Lobbying in England by an epilepsy group has resulted in this warning being displayed in all media whenever there is flash.
Because a few people react to flash. Only a few, and only when they do not take their meds, and only if the flashing is repeated at a rate of around 25 Hz, of course; but that’s beside the point, apparently.
It is a shame that there is no regard for reasonableness in these knee-jerk reactions. I can see the day that flash is illegal anywhere in a British public space… preposterous. Now if they said “we prohibit repeated strong stroboscopic flash at a rate of 25 Hz, deliberately aimed at large audiences”, it would perhaps be a different matter. Perhaps.
But superstition rules. Flash in news. Cell phones at gas stations. WiFi and Peanut butter in schools. Vaccinations. All of these represent either some danger or some possible but unproven danger or no danger, just superstition. But when there is danger, the question is “how much? ” And it is there that policy makers fail. Obviously we accept danger in life, otherwise we would all live in tents in open fields, ride bicycles limited to 2 km/h, and wear helmets 24/7, and have police officers assigned to every family 24/7. We would not have airplanes either, or electricity or cars. Clearly, that is nonsensical: we accept risk. And the risk involved in flash photography is extremely minimal. So carry on flashing, speedlighters: no fear.
A reader asks:
I need your device on buying a secondary speed light . I currently have the canon 430 Ex 3 RT speedlite. I wish to purchase a second speedlite. Should I purchase the Canon flagship or should I buy a secondary 430 ? Are the 430’s more than enough for off camera work? Does it make sense to purchase a speedlite with more power? Any advice would be helpful ?
Well. “It depends”.
If your camera cannot use its pop-up flash to drive other flashes, then buy a 580/600, the flash that can be a “master”. The 430 can only be a “slave”.
Also, the 580/600 are more powerful. And they can rotate a full 360º, which is important when bouncing.
Or… you could do it all in manual mode with all remote flashes. using radio triggers like Pocketwizards. In that case, buy cheap flashes, like 430s or the even cheaper Yongnuo clones.
The choice is yours.
The Pro Flash Manual gives you more information: see http://learning.photography.
On a bright cloudy day today, I looked like this:
Wait. A bright day?
Yes, and that is the point of dramatic flash photos. I taught a workshop today, a hands on workshop, on the three basic modes of flash: “party”, “studio” and “outdoors”. This takes time, and “doing it” is the only way to learn. Today’s two students really learned.
Yes, in a few hours you can master flash. You still, of course, have to practice and refine, but you will do that yourself after the course. Contact me if you are interested in a private “Dutch Masters” course. A few hours and you are master: see http://learning.photography for more details.
In the mean time: one tip to my readers. If you want to be extra dramatic as in the image above, and it is bright, you need a lot of flash to “nuke the sun”. To achieve that, remove the modifiers (e.g. the softbox or umbrella) and use direct flash.
Just one of the things you learn from me, my books, and my courses.