Imagine a shot like this.
Go to the DEVELOP module in Lightroom. Open the LENS CORRECTIONS pane. In that, turn on AUTO in the “Upright” section:
Click, and instantly you get:
And using this rig, I just talked to a station in Cuba.
As you all know, Apple Aperture is end-of-life. And with that, end-of-competition: Lightroom is the only game in town.
And with that, Adobe is flexing its muscle; it is trying to get everyone to use their “Cloud” subscription model. That way, they get a fee (like $9.99) every month, instead of one payment of $150 for Lightroom forever. Clearly, they are interested in this.
Clearly, I am not interested.
Adobe is making it almost impossible to buy Lightroom today. But the key is “almost”. After a long while online with support, I was today given the “BUY AS A PRODUCT” links:
For as long as possible, I shall go on using Lightroom as a normal license rather than a monthly subscription, and you all may want to do the same.
Toay we have so much power. So much more than in the film days, where we had toi get it all done in camera.
Now, no more. We can shoot RAW and do any desired post processing later.
Take this image, one of the “tween and teen” shoot of the other day:
The kids’ mom and I shot that like this:
So I like the vivid colours. But what if I wanted B/W?
I would set my camera to RAW, but picture style to B/W. That way I see B/W on the back of the camera, to give me some idea.
But the moment I get home, in Lightroom I see colour again. So I go to the DEVELOP module, in within that the “HSL/Color/B&W” pane. I select B&W:
Which gives me this:
That’s nice and all, but as regular readers know, I can now set the brightness of individual colours. Why? Well, for instance, to create contrast between subject and background, or to emphasize or de-emphasize certain areas.
For example, I could make the shirt darker by sliding the “BLUE” slider to teh left. All blue areas (mainly the shirt) would get darker:
Be careful not to go too dark: you will see artefacts: look carefully at the edges of the shirt:
Anyway.. here, I want the shirt brighter. So I tune up blue, and then make various other small adjustments, like making green darker; all of which are aimed at making the boy stand out from the background:
Which gives me my final picture, which looks like this:
Actually, that’s not bad, especially when you consider that in Lightroom, this takes merely a minute of your time.
In the past, we would have used actual filters in front of the lens (e.g. a yellow filter would make the blue areas go darker). The problem is that you cannot readily experiment. Here, you can go crazy (though please don’t). Fun!
Come to me for some personal training, if you want to master these techniques. See http://learning.photography. Bring a kid or two and you get two benefits: portraits of the kids and teaching. All you need is to bribe your child in to cooperating for three hours. Easy, right?
If you have not yet looked at my Adobe Lightroom and other photography videos, then head to my YouTube video channel: www.youtube.com/user/cameratraining. Regular new tips and techniques. Today’s tip: Secrets of the Healing Brush. A few things I bet you didn’t know.
Note: there’s one spot left on tomorrow’s Oakville Advanced Flash course. Contact me if you are interested.
Or rather, you don’t.
A somewhat advanced Lightroom tip for studio photographers today.
Adobe Lightroom, since version 4, has protected us from ourselves. Any overexposed areas are automatically brought back as much as possible as part of the RAW conversion, so that they appear not overexposed.
Fine. Until in a studio portrait, you try to deliberately overexpose the background, so that it becomes pure white. Fine, except Lightroom stops you.
Until you change the RAW conversion back to the older, 2010 version. Then you can overexpose as much as you wish.
I just posted a short video about this here:
TIP: Sign up for my YouTube channel, so you hear when I post a new video.