K for Kelvin, that is.
If you find that your white balance setting still leaves your pictures yellow when taking pictures in tungsten light even when you set the white balance to Tungsten, try a Kelvin value if your camera supports that. I find, for instance, that in my bedroom 2700K is about right.
If your camera does not support that, use a Custom white balance setting after you shoot a white sheet of paper. Your camera’s manual will help in this.
Of course if you shoot RAW [corrected] this makes no difference, but I still recommend doing this: it reduces your post-production work, plus your back-of-the-camera previews look better.
Typo. Should it not be “if you shoot RAW this makes no difference”.
Indeed. Oops! Thanks – now corrected. If you shoot JPG, it does make a difference!
One annoying “feature” when getting a custom white balance is that you can’t see what the custom degrees Kelvin value was on camera — you can only pull it out of the exif data later. A shame, really, because more immediate feedback would help to train photographers (like me) to know what degrees Kelvin setting matches various lighting conditions.
That depends on the camera. On my 1D Mark IV, I just checked, I can see it in the review (after I press “info” to see the full data).