A quick reminder for those of you who shoot action shots: shots where the subject is moving.
For anything where the subject is moving, you may want to:
- Use Tv/S or manual mode (or Av/A mode with a large aperture) to set the exposure time to 1/200th sec or faster – the faster, the better, typically..
- Use a high ISO (in hockey arenas and wedding dance halls, you may well need 1600 ISO).
- Use the center focus point
- Set the focus mode (the “how does the camera focus) to “Continuous” (AF-C/AI Servo).
- Set the drive mode to continuous.
- If you are moving with the subject, turn off your lens’s stabiliser, unless you have a “mode 2” for panning.
- You may want to try JPG shots for these.
And finally, do think about how you want to show or freeze motion. It is not a given that all motion must be frozen. A hint of motion blur can show the viewer that something was actually happening, and that they are not staring at a statue.
Why do you say “try JPG shots”? I am guessing because the camera will shoot more shots per second in continuous mode.
And you are absolutely right. That, and you will take so many pictures that space may become an issue.
OTOH white balance can be tricky in indoor venues like the example above so it can be good to shoot RAW. I bet your 1D and 7D cameras can shoot a lot of frames.
Suggestion for another topic: memory cards. How big a card should I buy? Is it “the bigger the better” or are there trade-offs? Is it worth paying extra for high performance cards? What do you use?
Enjoy your Santa shooting.
Memory Card post will be done in the next days! And suggestions for posts (as well as feedback to existing ones) are very welcome indeed.
And yes, indeed: white balance. Today I must shoot Santa tethered and in JPG, so I will be using careful custom white balance. In an arena, when shooting JPG I white balance off the ice.
Just a thought: if you’re going to do all that (points 1-5, 7) above, why not save time & put the camera on Sports / Action mode? Isn’t that exactly what it does?
1Ds and 7Ds don’t have those Modes but the less expensive models do. Is it not a good idea to use them as a time-saver (when shooting JPG)?
Oh yes, I added a couple of questions to your “Ask me a question” post and you never got around to answering them. When you have time …
I have one more (I always do.) A friend in Bangkok is replacing his 5D Mark 1 with a newer body. He offered to sell me the 5D.
1. I think the 5D would be a step-up from my 30D in terms of quality, even if it is the original model.
2. BUT I don’t have the L lenses that would use its capabilities and I might be disappointed. True?
3. Would you ever consider a second-hand body? If so what checks should I do before buying?
Answers coming, starting with this one momentarily.