Studio simple

A studio need not be expensive. Even a light or two – affordable strobes – and a few reflectors and a backdrop will do it.

This is a setup I often take on the road:

  • Two or three strobes with stands
  • A reflector with stand
  • One softbox and one umbrella
  • Two pocketwizards
  • A tripod
  • A backdrop with stands, and a roll of grey paper.

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Easier than it seems and this results in good pictures. Even, sometimes, when you use just one light and a reflector.

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And instead of the light meter, consider using the histogram.

Since you asked:

Here are some shots at 100-800 ISO from both the 1Ds Mark III and the 7D. Studio, and to get to the next step, I just changed both ISO and Aperture up in both cases each time.

The shots below are a crop detail from this setup, lit with one umbrella and one softbox fired with pocketwizards. I used a 35mm prime lens on the 7D, and a 50mm prime on the 1Ds MkIII, in order to get the same field of view.

Important – click on each image to see a pixel-for-pixel real-size preview.

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So here we start at 100 ISO:

7D-100

7D- 100 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 100 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 100 ISO

Now take a look at 200 ISO:

7D - 200 ISO

7D - 200 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 200 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 200 ISO

Now up to 400 ISO:

7D - 400 ISO

7D - 400 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 400 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 400 ISO

And finally, 800 ISO. Now we start to see noise, but keep in mind, these are real-sized crops. In reality, even at 8″x10″ you would see little.

7D - 800 ISO

7D - 800 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 800 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 800 ISO

Tip of the day

This is one of those tips that is too simple to be written, almost – but that is enormously important.

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How do you hold your camera?

I ask because it is very important to hold it steady. Even a slight shake will result in blur.

And yes, that applies even if you have a stabilised lens (like a Nikon “VR” lens or a Canon “IS” lens), useful as they are (and they are). We often underestimate the effect of motion. Even at, say, 1/125th or 1/250th second. “Lens length times two”? That is a estimate, and a rough one. A starting point. But unless youthe more steady your camera, the better your pictures.

It all starts with you holding your camera steady. Of course a tripod is the gold standard. But failing that, hold your camera the way I am holding mine in the image above. If your lens is long, hold it as far forward as possible. In any case, hold it with your left hand as I am showing you here.

Simple but effective in reducing vibration to a minimum. Your photos’ sharpness will improve as a result. Visibly.

Old habits die hard

I just looked in my wallet. In spite of the fact I have not traveled much in the past year, I found this:

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European, British, Hong Kong, Chinese, and Israeli money. And it’s all been sitting in my wallet, losing money, Unlike my investments, which… oh wait. Never mind.

Missing: US dollars. But since I plan to put on an “Advanced Flash” workshop for Pros in Phoenix, AZ in early December, perhaps I’d better change some of that money into greenbacks. (Tip: always do this in the country the money is from, or that you are changing the money into. Doing it in Canada for instance would necessitate first going to the in-between step of C$ – you lose twice.)

Handbook

You all read these. Right?

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Your camera manuals. You read them.

Or not?

If not, I do not blame you. Photography is not complicated, but these manuals do a very good job at making it seem so. Plus, they are written in a 6-point thin font that makes it very tough to read anything if you are over the age of 25.

My advice: please do not be put off by these overly complex manuals, and take a course instead. In a few hours I can teach you what you would take years to learn reading manuals.

I spend a lot of time working out why this is – why these manuals are so complex. I think it is a combination of:

  • They are aimed at people who know photography already.
  • They fail to distinguish between what is simple and what is complex.
  • The writers do not share your experiences.

Much of it is that last point. Why, for instance, do they call “continuous focus” (where the camera keeps trying) by the name “AI Servo”? Most people think the “AI” is pronounced “AL”, like the name. But it is short for Artificial Intelligence. “Servo” means an accurately controlled motor with feedback. How on earth would normal people know that? They wouldn’t, is the answer.

So rest assured. It’s not you, and it’s not that photography is complicated.

Free: a 580EX MkII flash

I taught some wedding pros Advanced Flash last night. I used my 7D:

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And I was struck again by one major reason I bought a 7D: I can now, just like the Nikon users, drive my external flashes from the popup. That means my 580, which used to sit on top of the camera, is now my off-camera key light instead.

This is pretty major – it reduces the price of the 7D by $500+, because essentially I now get an extra 580EX flash free of charge.

And you can set separate ratios for built-in vs. external, and much more. This is a very major overhaul of the flash system – I can now use the 7D whenever I uses multiple strobes, since the 1D MKII and 1Ds MKIII do not have a popup flash. And no other Canon offers the option to drive TTL flashes from the popup.