Memory cards Q&A

A quick Q&A note about memory cards today.

Q: How many of them do I need?

  1. Get many.
  2. Get more.
  3. Now get more.

Memory cards, I have said for years, are just like baskets. Photos are like eggs. Need I say more?

Q: Do I need fast cards?

Not necessarily. For video and for fast shooting as in sports a fast card is needed. For everything else, there is little need. Fast cards are convenient (faster review, faster writing of the buffer) but not necessary.

Q: Should I buy brand names?

Yes. Lexar, Sandisk, etc are in fact electronically better.

Q: What size?

It depends. I like 16 GB for the big cameras but only because I can write to two cards at once, and because my big cameras write big files. Normally I would say 8-16 GB, no larger.

And when travelling, 4GB cards. Why? Because a 4GB card will write in its entirety to a DVD. An 8 GB card, on the other hand, has to be written to two DVDs which will increase the confusion factor.

Canon updates

Canon has released several updates: new firmware for the Canon EOS 7D, version 1.2.2 (download it from here), and new firmware for the Canon EOS 1D Mark IV., version 1.0.8 (download it from here).

I recommend that when able, you do these updates. Full battery, newly formatted-in-camera memory card, no lens or a good Canon lens on the camera, and then do the update. Features and fixes could be useful, and there may be undocumented fixes also, I suspect.

Autofocus assist: will it work?

My Canon speedlites (like the Nikon flashes) have an “Autofocus Assist Mode”, where a red pattern of lines emerges from the red square at the front. I am talking about big flashes, like my 580EX 2:

580ex2 Flash

580ex2 Flash

The flash emits the red beam when needed to help the camera focus. This happens:

  1. When it is dark
  2. When the subject has too little contrast (try focusing on a blank wall).

It is cleverly linked to the focus spot: when you are using a focus spot that can detect horizontal lines, it will emit horizontal lines; when using a focus spot that can detect vertical lines, it will emit vertical lines.

But when does it not work?

  1. When it is not dark and the subject is not low contrast. If the camera can focus without the assist light, it will. Why waste battery power?
  2. When you are not using “One Shot” focus (Nikon calls it AF-S). The red light helps the camera lock focus: when you are in a mode that does not lock (namely manual focus or AI Servo/AF-C focus), it will not try.
  3. When you are using a focus point that cannot be reached by the red pattern (think wide angle lens).

Hope that helps. Flash can seem very complicated, but if you know all these little things, it gets a lot easier to use.

Choose

Light. And hence, photographic lighting. It can make a picture completely different from any other picture. Photos are about light, composition, and moment. Light is a differentiator as large as the other two.

And it is a matter of taste. De gustibus non est disputandum.

So, to see what others think, let me ask. Which of the two pictures below (taken on Sunday during the all-day workshop) do you prefer?

I was going to go into the differences, but I should not do that. Just a simple question: which one do you like better? View both large to see the detail.

Please let me know, in email or by commenting below.

Number one:

Girl in rain. Evanna Mills; photo by Michael Willems

Girl in rain. Evanna Mills; photo by Michael Willems

And number two:

Girl in rain. Evanna Mills; photo by Michael Willems

Girl in rain. Evanna Mills; photo by Michael Willems

I am curious. I suppose I have a preference, but I will not tell you which one it is.

Engineers… sigh.

An old one:

  • Q: What does an engineer use for birth control?
  • A: His personality.

I am constantly amazed when I see how engineers fail to communicate. They assume that ordinary people know or understand things that the engineers take for granted. If I know it, so must others, right?

Wrong. Here are just a few of the constant stream of things that make photography difficult for mortals.

  • Nikon menu spaghetti: The vertical menu tabs in Nikon cameras. And the navigation: “left, up/down, right, up/down, select, up/down, Set”. And then if you forget the final “up, set, press OK”, you lose the setting you have just done.
  • Nikon menus: in addition, most users do not understand that the menus are longer than the screen. The scroll bar is small and unintuitive. So if the vertical menu displays 8 functions but contains 18, most users will never know about those additional 10.
  • Nikon hidden auto ISO. Hide the Nikon auto ISO setting in a custom function, and users wonder why their pictures get all grainy (and their studio pictures fail completely) when they have clearly set ISO to just 200 in the main ISO screen. D’oh!
  • Wakey wakey – that fact that you need to wake up your camera by briefly pressing the shutter before you can set anything. I cannot tell you the number of times I hear “my camera isn’t working: it’s on but when I turn that dial, nothing happens”.
  • 1/1. When I set my flash to full power manual, a Canon flash displays “1/1”. In a world where only one in ten Canadians can tell me that 1,000 times 1,000 equals one million (most think 10,ooo), why do you think that people know that one divided by one is one? And even if they do, that “one” means “full power”?
  • Lens terminology. “ZOOM LENS EF 70-200mm 1:2.8 L USM IS”: need I say more? Instead of “1:3.5-5.6”, why not say f/3.5 to f/5.6, so beginners understand it? Look at that string: one colon three dot five dash five dot six. Clear, not.
  • Auto-focus terminology – We have AF mode and AF point selection, but AF point selection is not called anything like “AF”. So when people look for the word “AF” to select where the camera focuses, they get how it focuses instead.
  • Colour: why call “white balance” after “white”, which is not a colour? If they called it “colour balance” it would be sooo much clearer! Yeah guys, I know. Don’t think science; just think customer!
  • Terminology. Why call it “3D Color Matrix Metering” or “Evaluative metering” when “Smart Metering” would work a whole lot better?
  • Alonzo the Clever Mexican. I have had several people ask me who Alonzo is. Al, that is. Namely Al Servo, the Mexican who invented continuous autofocus. I mean really, do you know how few people know that “AI” means “Artificial Intelligence” (I estimate fewer than one perfect of Canadians)? And that a Servo Motor is a closely controlled electrical motor with negative feedback loop?

The list goes on, and on.

Don’t these companies do any UI testing? Head in the sand! The GTA Nikon rep recently looked at me baffled, and says “but no-one else ever told me this is confusing” – like it’s my fault.  Yeah buddy, that’s because I teach this to ordinary users, day in day out, and you just sell it.

Camera people always get defensive. “But everyone else understands it!”, they say. Um… look up “survivor bias” on Wikipedia, guys.

So if you find yourself confused: it’s not you. It’s the camera and the manual. It is time Apple designed an SLR. But do not despair: take some training and in spite of the camera companies’ engineers’ best efforts to avoid clear communication, you will learn this stuff.

And yeah, I am an engineer.

Pocketwizardry Tip

Quick tip.

When using Pocketwizards to fire your flashes or speedlites (use Flashzebra cables for the latter if necessary), perhaps for pictures like this:

Evanna Mills by Michael Willems

Evanna Mills, photo by Michael Willems

You get a choice of three settings: local, remote, or both.

Local means “when triggered, fire the device connected to the Pocketwizard”. “Remote” means “when triggered, use your radio transmitter to fire the remote devices that may be listening”. Both means both.

Tip: In any normal situation, set your device to remote on the camera, and to local on the others, that have a flash attached.

Why not just set them all to “both”?

  1. Many radio signals will be sent each time, leading to an increased chance of confusion.
  2. More power is spent this way too.

Yes, I know, radio all over can even make things more reliable. But in my opinion it is as likely to make things less reliable. And yes I know, radio does not use a lot of power and the PWs last forever on two AAs. But “forever” does not actually mean “forever”. The longer you make the batteries last, the better.

It’s one of those engineering things.

PS: in the menu on the right, you can sign up for email notifications every time I post – which is typically once, or sometimes twice, a day. Handy and recommended so you do not miss anything.

Have you ever seen the rain?

Evanna Mills, photo by Michael Willems

Evanna Mills, photo by Michael Willems

Model Evanna Mills, photographed on yesterday’s Pro Workshop featuring Joseph Marranca and myself. Liz Valenta did the make-up.

It was raining.

Actually, it was a garden hose.

Lit mainly from behind, plus additional fill from the front. With the exposure set manually to create a dark background. The lights were both simple speedlites, fired using a pocketwizard.

And here’s one more. Now I am shining that back light through the black umbrella, making it almost white:

Evanna Mills, photo by Michael Willems

Evanna Mills, photo by Michael Willems

You see how much you can do using very simple means? This is what we teach on workshops, and it is also what photographers should keep in mind at all times.Simple technique can do a lot.

Tip: Making it darker

Usually, photography is a struggle to get enough light. Fast lenses, high ISOs, wide apertures: we do what we can. But it is sometimes a good idea to cut light.

Like when you want dark backgrounds and have plenty of flash power, or like when you want to create long exposures during the day, perhaps to capture a flowing waterfall.

The way to do this is to go to a low ISO.  But once you have run out of low ISO, you need to use a filter. A neutral density filter (ND filter) is what you use.

Today’s Tip: if you do not have an ND filter handy, use your polarizer. This too cuts a couple of stops of light. That’s one good reason to always carry one for your popular lenses.

Background

Quick Composition Tip: make sure your background is relevant. The foreground subject in your image should be interacting with, supported by, or given meaning by the background. Otherwise it should not be there.

Tip 2 today: Look for opposing colours. Like red versus green; or as in here, yellow versus blue:

Gold and blue

Gold and blue

Your pictures will stand out more. As simple as that!