Lightroom Tips

Two Lightroom performance tips for you today:

  • Optimize your library regularly. On a Mac, go to “Lightroom”, “Catalog Settings..”, and select “Relaunch and Optimize”.
  • Increase your Camera RAW Cache size to at least 10 GB (if your hard disk has that much size available). On a Mac, go to “Lightroom”, “Preferences”, and set Camera Cache size to 10 GB or more.

This will keep your Lightroom installation working more quickly.

New toy

Just received the new Honl Photo bounce card/speed snoot.

It is like the previous ones in that it is small, sturdy, and conveniently attaches to the Speed Strap.

What’s different?

This one has not a white but a gold reflector (equivalent to 1/4 CTO).

That means I can use it to:

  • Shoot with flash in Tungsten ambient light without making the background warm or the subject too blue; or
  • Warm up portraits with a nice warm glow.

Yet another thing to make my light-life easier.

I am going to be once again sharing my Flash expertise in Phoenix next month – 22 and 23 March – for pro and emerging pro users. You can be sure I am going to show how these small modifiers enable a whole new world of flash.

Portrait lenses

Lenses for portraits, you ask? Which ones to use?

I usually suggest:

  • Prime 50mm on crop camera, or 85mm on a full frame camera, for head and shoulder shots. A prime lens is good for this while being fast, sharp, and light.
  • Prime 35mm on a crop camera, or 50mm on a full frame camera, for half body shots
  • 16-35 zoom on a crop camera, or 24-70 on a full-frame camera, for general purpose portraits from headshots two groups of two or more.
  • 70-200 for studio headshots and fashion.

The faster, the better. f/2.8 lenses are better than f/3.5-5.6 lenses. f/1.4 lenses are even better.

The affordable, great 50mm f/1.8 is a lens you should own (if you have a Nikon D40/60/3000/5000 you need to focus it manually). If you don;t have one yet, go get it.

This quick guide, which works for most photographers, should start you off well enough.

One light

You do not always need many lights. Sometimes, one light is enough:

f/8, 1/125th, 100 ISO

That is just one studio light, fired through a pocketwizard (but I could have used a cable) – and a reflector on the other side. This leads to this:

Yes, of course a background light, hairlight,and so on, would give me more control.

But we should all be aware that this amount of lighting is sometimes neither possible nor practical. And one light plus a reflector can give you nice light.

Travel Tip

When you travel with a suitcase, bring two camera bags. A small one and a large one.

The trick: one of these bags goes into your suitcase, filled with underwear, socks and other things you were going to bring anyway. That way it takes up no space.

So now when you get to your destination, you have a choice of camera bags every day: the large one, or the small one.

Camera Needs?

I shot a school Sunday: “Photo Day” portraits at a music school.

My colleague Anita and I used strobes, backdrops, and Canon cameras: 40D, a 7D and a 1D Mark IV. A few interesting observations:

  • The 7D produced the same crisp wonderful images as the 1D Mark IV. The 40D was not far behind. Sharp… amazing. Of course we were using all “L” lenses.
  • We both loved the 7D’s feel, ergonomics, even shutter sound.
  • I left the 1Ds MarkIII in the bag. With the 16/17 Megapixels of the 1D and 7D, who needs more?
  • The sharp display on the back of the 7D/1D4 really helps. And that is important: some images were slightly soft (ever so slightly – not that you would see even in a 8×10 print). Almost certainly due to me moving: I was using the cameras handheld.
  • The 1D4’s metering is a bit “enthusiastic”, as dpreview calls it. But on manual, with all  JPG adjustments turned off, this did not matter.
  • Excellent colour out of the box (shooting RAW, importing into Lightroom, WB set to “Flash” on camera to give LR a good starting point).

The 1D is the pro workhorse, of course, and it performed great (redundant memory card included!), but I must say, the 7D was a real pleasure to use. Especially at low ISO (100-400, say), I see no reason not to use it for pro studio work.

In the UK, photography=antisocial

In another fine example of anti-photography harassment, a Lancashire photographer was arrested for taking photographs. “Because of terrorism” and “photography is suspicious” were some of the reasons expressed by police in the photographer’s tape of the incident, in this article in The Guardian.

I have seen this many times when visiting the UK: Big Brother does not like photography except when He is doing it.

The photographer in this incident was polite and articulate and knew the law. It is indeed incumbent on us photographers to stop this escalation of nonsense.

RGB?

Adobe or sRGB? You may have wondered how to set up your camera in this regard. Look through its menus and the choice of colour space will come  up.

This question means “how shall I translate the colours to bits when making a JPG file”.

So what determines your choice?

  • AdobeRGB has more colours but can look very bad on a PC, on the web, or when printed on a cheap printer.
  • sRGB has fewer colours but is optimised to look good on  a computer screen, cheap printer, etc.
  • See above: “…when making a JPG file”.  It is only important when you are shooting JPG.

So the answer is:

  • When shooting JPG, use sRGB
  • Only change to AdobeRGB if the publication you are shooting for says you should use that colour space.
  • When shooting RAW the choice is irrelevant (so set it to sRGB too).

Simple. Like so many things.

And this also represents one of the many advantages of shooting RAW: not ahving to worry about such things as colour space, as they are set later, when the JPG is generated.

Dull day

On a dull day, with dreary light grey skies, you can consider doing a few things to add interest.

Off the Apache Trail, East of Phoenix, AZ

Technique:

  • Make the background darker by using -1 to -2 stops of exposure compensation
  • Get close to a subject that can add interest
  • If possible, make that a colourful subject
  • Use your flash!
  • Set flash compensation appropriately as needed

You will see that even on a dull day you can make interesting images.