Best piece of advice about being a photographer?

A few months ago, NPAC (the News Photographers Association of Canada) featured me, here. An interview with some front pages like this:

Special to the Oakville Beaver/Michael Willems

But one question I was asked stuck with me. They asked for advice about being a photographer.

To me that is a metaphor for “doing with your life what you want to do with it”. So when I addressed a University of Toronto ball last night as keynote speaker, this is one of the things that came to my mind. Do what you want: try to find a way even when it is difficult.

This is the answer I gave NPAC:

I could sound cliché and say; “Don’t”, or “keep your day job”. But in fact it is the opposite: “go for it” was much better advice. When I went full time into photography I went down in income by, oh, 85%. But I went up in life enjoyment by about 500%. And although I now work 7 days a week (I shoot, and then evenings and weekends I teach, both at Henry’s and at my own outfit, www.cameratraining.ca, where I train pros), at least I can sleep in every day – I get up at 8-8:30 am. When we say things like “don’t”, we need to keep all aspects of the decision in mind. Not just money.


Is it the end?

Photography done as a profession? The New York Times seems to think so in this article today.

They are right that the triple whammy of microstock, cheap digital cameras, and the end of magazines and newspapers are bad news for photographers. They are also right that quality is not recognized: the quote at the end of the article is telling (and galling).

I think there is hope, however. For several reasons.

  • Quality, in the end, wins out sometimes. In a McDonalds world, there are still bistros and Chateaubriand.
  • Much business is gained by word of mouth, not advertising.
  • Some events are too important to have Uncle Fred shoot (think “weddings”).
  • The model will change. More pros are becoming microstock photographers. Any industry changes – this is inevitable. But “change” does not have to mean “vanish”.
  • If everyone shoots, everyone needs to learn. This means pros who can teach will find a larger market waiting for them.
  • News will continue to need coverage.
  • There are other opportunities – facebook profiles, online magazines, albums, large prints: I see no waning in the popularity of photos per se.

Spot News

This is all complex and fraught with uncertainty, but we can be sure, I think, that some photographers will survive, even thrive. Many more will go part time. Amateurs will be earning more too. Either way, photos will be taken and some people will continue make money.

But I agree with the New York Times: It’s definitely not the same business. We’re not in Kansas anymore.

Always carry spares

When you are shooting for pay, always make sure that you carry:

  • A spare camera battery.
  • Spare batteries for your flash.
  • Some Alkaline AAs.
  • Spare memory cards.
  • A spare flash.
  • Spares for essential cables (e.g. to connect your flash to your camera or pocketwizards).
  • Even, if at all possible, a spare camera.

That way you can offer your customer peace of mind, and you can rest assured that the price you charge is worth it – “Uncle Bob”, after all, does not carry the spares above.

I have been saved more than a few times by the spares above – yes, all of them.

Why oh why!

Why, some people ask, should I pay a photographer hundreds of dollars for some shots that Uncle Fred can do for free?

A fair question. It is clearly not that the photographer is getting rich. So what do you get for your money when you hire a photographer?

Here’s what.

  1. Knowledge. I have heard it say that it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert at anything, from brain surgery to plumbing. I can believe it – I spend every hour shooting or learning about it even today. A working photographer has the hours of learning needed to ensure success.
  2. Practical experience. It is unlikely that, when you hire a pro for, say, an important event, it is the first time he or she has shot that type of event.
  3. Artistic insight. Unlike Uncle Fred, the pro knows how to compose your photos. He or she will not put every subject in the centre: instead, you will get artistic photos.
  4. Equipment. A pro has the right gear for the job. My $15,000 worth of cameras, $10,000 worth of lenses and $10,000 of other equipment means something. It means that your shots will be tack sharp. It means that if we need a wide angle lens, we have it. It means backgrounds can be blurred out by large apertures. It means that if the shot involves low light, we will get it without motion blur. It means the cameras will work in the rain. It means that each shot can be written to two memory cards at once, so that if one breaks, the shot is safe. It means the colours will be right.
  5. Post-production work. The pro knows how to finish the shots in post-production. Cropping, exposure adjustments, skin blemish fixups: often, a one-hour shoot means two hours of finishing, exporting, and uploading. Do not underestimate that: half the work is in the post.
  6. Reliability. You can be assured that the pro will show up as promised, when promised…

And that is why a pro deliver substantially better photography service – and better photographs – than dear old Uncle Fred can. You are not buying prints: you are buying expertise – and in the end, results.

And that is what matters. Your event, your child, your product: a good photo makes it last forever,which presumably is worth the minor expense of doing it right.

Click. Shhhh!

A few tips for those of you who shoot ceremonies.

Ceremonies are important to people. Whether this is a graduation, a wedding, a signing of some sort: there will often be a hushed silence.

A silence you do not want to disturb. So today’s tips are about blending in and behaving appropriately at such venues.

  • First, dress in a non-conspicuous way. You do not want to be the centre of attention.
  • Ask the person in charge what you can do. Can you walk around? Use flash? Click away?
  • Ask if flash is allowed
  • If it is, bounce that flash rather than use direct light.
  • If it is not, you may still be allowed to use the focus assist on your camera’s flash. That’s the little red line pattern your flash can cast to help focus, and you can use this even when the actual flash function is disabled.
  • Turn off your camera’s focus beep.
  • If you have a Nikon SB-900 flash, turn off the “overheating” beep.
  • If you use off-camera flash, ditto: disable the beeps (notably on Nikon flashes)
  • Use a camera with a quiet shutter. I will grab my 7D if I want a quieter shutter sound. Some people even wrap their cameras. If you have a pro body such as a Canon 1D or 1ds, select the “Silent” shutter mode.
  • Use a longer lens and shoot from farther away.

By using these common-sense precautions, you can give yourself and all other photographers a good name.

I teach pros, too

As you probably know, I teach beginning Photographers at Henry’s School of Imaging. Yesterday I taught a dozen new photographers “Point and Shoot Basics” in Mississauga.

I also present to camera clubs, as in here recently in Scarborough:

In addition, I also teach pros and emerging pros, both in Oakville and in Toronto’s Distillery District. The new February/March schedule is up, right here. My advanced flash course, where among other things I teach all the subtle little differences between e-TTL II and CLS/i-TTL; advanced light balancing techniques; when to use what modifier; and more, is very popular with wedding pros.

Both these types of training remind me how important user interfaces are. Why call a focus mode “AI Servo” if you could call it “continuous focus”? Why call metering “3D Colour Matrix” when “Smart Metering” would be understood more readily by your market?

Ever read your camera manual? Did you learn a lot? I see thousands of students ever year and if one thing is clear, it is that camera makers could communicate much, much better. First they would have to give the job of designing terms to User Interface experts and writer, not to engineers.

Learning technique

Today, a tip and a request.

First, the tip.

How do you learn to “pan” your camera along with a moving object (like a bicycle travelling traversely through your picture)? So that the object appears to not move much, while the background is a streak? How do you learn this in the absence of cyclists riding through your living room? You pan and follow your hand. That’s how.

  1. Set your camera to S/Tv mode
  2. Select a shutter speed of 1/15th second (a good starting point).
  3. Hold your hand out as far as it can go.
  4. Focus on it. Wait for the beep and then hold your finger on the shutter to lock that focus distance.
  5. Now rapidly move your entire body around, so your hand describes a circle around you.
  6. Half way through that circle: click. (Do not stop moving to click!)

Try this technique, and repeat until you are happy. Your images may look somewhat like this:

You thus get to practice the technique that gets you images like this:

Did you find that a useful tip? Then I have a request for you.

I teach these and many photographic techniques –  a tip a day! – because I want to give back and help disseminate information and knowledge as widely as possible. I want the world to learn photography, and I think I can be a small part of that.

But you can help me too.

First: send me questions. About anything photographic.  I’ll do my best to answer them in a timely manner right here. That way, your question benefits others too.

Second: help me with the blog. Apart from small contributions, which are always welcome (see the link on the right), even more importantly, you can link to me. Mention my blog to friends and to others who many be interested. Link from your blog or from your facebook page. Tweet. Mention me on your web site. If you are helped by this, you can do me a big favour by spreading my name, and that of this blog, as widely as possible. This is an ongoing request!

That way I get better known, and I get to help more people. In this way, we all help each other. I firmly believe that this is the way the new economy works. Social media, sharing, the Internet: we now grow value by collaborating, not by “hoarding and hiding knowledge”. People who do not yet understand this will eventually find out that the old “make money by keeping knowledge secret” paradigms are dead.

And the world will be a better place for it.

Michael

That portable studio

So when I pack by bags to do a location shoot, like today’s executive headshots shoot, you saw in a recent post that I bring rather a lot.

And what do I use? How does it look when it’s all set up?

That setup process, which takes about 45-60 minutes including carrying it all from the car in stages, results in this:

This setup consists of:

  1. A grey backdrop. I like grey because you can make it any colour, from black to white.
  2. The main (“key”) light: a light stand with Bowens 400 Ws monolight in a softbox. This is fired by a Pocketwizard (just visible, top left)
  3. The fill light: a light stand with a Bowens 400 Ws monolight into an umbrella. This is fired by the slave cell.
  4. The background light: a mini  light stand with a 430EX Speedlite, with a  Honl speed strap and a Honl 1/2 CTB gel. This light is fired by a Pocketwizard, using a Flashzebra cable.
  5. The hair light: another a light stand with a 430EX Speedlite, with a  Honl speed strap and Honl snoot. This light is fired by a Pocketwizard, using a Flashzebra cable.
  6. A stool.
  7. The camera set to 1/100th sec, f/9, 100 ISO, and equipped with a PocketWizard to fire the other flashes.

It doesn’t look like all that much, but when you write it out, and then add the power cables, connection cables, bags, and so on, it’s quite a lot.

Why photography costs money

Mainly because it breaks the photographer’s back.

Here is part of what I am bringing to a multiple corporate headshots session tomorrow:

This kit consists of:

  • One backdrop
  • Two rolls of backdrop paper, grey and white
  • One two-monolight set with three stands and two umbrellas
  • Two more monolights
  • Four lightstands with umbrellas for speedlites
  • Camera kit (lenses, a Canon 1Ds MkIII, etc)
  • Lighting kit with four speedlites, five Pocketwizards, modifiers, and much more.
  • Tripod

Not pictured:

  • a 60×80 softbox
  • a Canon 7D camera
  • a muslin backdrop
  • a stool for the subject to sit on.

I am now going to bed early, so that I can build strength!

The serious point, of course, is that when a photographer visits with a portable setup, he really carries with him a full studio and everything that includes.

Pro camera for sale – SOLD

As said, I am selling my backup camera: a  Canon 1D MkIII, new model (Serial number 565… – it’s not an “old, revised, blue dot modified” one).

This is THE Photojournalist’s camera: best I have owned. 10 fps, built like a tank.  And it’s like new. Perfect working order, no damage, has not been dropped, mistreated, or anything; no oil, no dust; low shutter actuations (around 15,000) – this was my backup camera (the 1Ds MkIII being the main one).

I am selling because I also bought a 7D and I don’t need a third backup.

This camera has the latest firmware and has been inspected by Canon CPS. It comes in the original Box with warranty doc. It has over 15 months left of the Henry’s extended warranty – fully transferable! – and it comes with original:

  • Battery
  • Battery charger
  • Video cable
  • Computer cable
  • Manuals
  • Software
  • Strap

I’ll take cash, and of course you can come inspect and play with the camera here in my Oakville studio/classroom. Even take a studio portrait while you’re here 🙂

Here is the camera as shot with my Canon 7D just now, using the Bowens lights with softbox, fired with PocketWizards: