That dreamy look

If you want portraits to have that dreamy look, use a lens with a wide aperture (a small F-number, like 2.8).

I took this picture yesterday, using a prime 35mm lens (the Canon 35mm f/1.4L) on a Canon 7D, at an aperture of f/2.5 and a shutter speed of 1/50th second.

That 35mm on a 1.6 crop factor camera is like 50mm on a traditional full frame camera. So it’s a “Nifty Fifty”.

A that focal length, I was able to go quite close to Mr Pumpkin without much distortion, as you can see.

IMG_2199

That gives you a very nice look. The close proximity combined with the f/2.5 aperture gives me nice soft bokeh (the creamy quality of the background blur). Even the back of the head is soft.

Beautiful: reason for a smile.

More Black and White tips

I love black and white, so I thought you might too – in which case you might be interested in the following Quick Tips:

  1. Use B&W when the image is too grainy. In B&W pictures, grain can add, rather than detract – or at least it is less distracting.
  2. Set your camera to B&W – even if you shoot RAW. It will not have any effect on the RAW image (at least, no permanent effect), but you will see what you are getting on your LCD display.
  3. If you shot JPG, shoot in Adobe colour, and convert to B&W later.
  4. Use Lightroom rather than other software to convert. Use the Lightroom Develop module’s HSL/Color/Grayscale tool.
  5. In this tool clock on Grayscale and adjust. Lightroom has a great way of doing the standard conversion.
  6. And now, still in that tool, adjust to taste. Add to the “red” and “orange” slider in order to make skin better. Use other controls as needed to add contrast between your subject and the background.

As an illustration, here is an image converted automatically:

IMG_1080

Here, I have butchered it (and me – ouch) by dragging ‘orange’ and ‘yellow’ down:

IMG_1080-2

Here, I have done more of an appropriate conversion:

IMG_1080-3

See what I mean? This is equivalent to the old red-yellow-green filters. Except much more interactive and much simpler.

3200 on a 7D

This is what the cat looks like, when shot using my 7D, hand-held using the 35mm f/1.4L lens in available Tungsten light, slightly cropped, at 3200 ISO:

IMG_2036

I am not going through the trouble of showing the full crop because I want to make a point. And that point is: we often over-analyse. As you see here, indoors, low light, 3200 ISO with a fast lens, and you get images that look great at 1200 pixels wide and in a moderate-sized print.

Planning Phoenix

So I am planning an “Advanced Flash” workshop in Phoenix, Arizona, on December 3. Read more about it, and sign up for it, here:

http://www.cameratraining.ca/091203-Phoenix.html

If you are a pro or emerging pro in Phoenix, and flash is not your cup of tea- you need to spend this evening with me to hear why flash, and in particular TTL flash, is great once you have mastered it. And to hear that it is not difficult!

 

Why fast lenses?

Beginners often ask me “why should I buy those lenses with the low F-numbers? Why not buy the standard lens with the 5.6 on the front? They say the lens with the 2.8 on the front is better but I see it takes the same pictures: it’s just more expensive, right?”

Not exactly. The low F-number means  the lens has a larger maximum aperture. This means two things: it lets in more light, meaning faster shutter speed; and the ability, should you choose this, to create blurrier backgrounds.

Here’s my hand at F/11. Recently in Scarborough, while the other instructor, Christine, was explaining the effects of the Aperture setting. My hand is as close as the lens will allow while still achieving focus. I am in Aperture mode (“Av”) and have set the camera to a setting of F/11:

f11

Now the same at f/5.6: a much blurrier background, see:

f56

And now, since I have an expensive lens, I can go even farther, to the extreme end of this lens, namely f/1.4. Meaning very wide open. Meaning very blurry background – and when you look carefully, even foreground:

f14

So that is why people buy these lenses with those low F-number – i.e. “fast”lenses. If you want to blur the background dramatically. Or if you want to have the resulting faster shutter speed (at the same ISO, f/1.4 gives a shutter speed four times faster than f/2.8, and 16 times faster than f/5.6).

Bad?

Annie Leibovitz shot the official Obama family portrait. You can see it here:

Obama Portrait

Discussion centres around how truly awful people think this picture is.

I think that is harsh.

The family group composition is good – background, not so much. That background could be more out of focus. And the picture right behind the younger daughter’s head is bad. The cut off picture frames at the top, too. Cut fingers, also. The verticals not being vertical on the right bugs me. Older daughter’s hair is not separated from the background. But awful? The family is nicely positioned. Expressions are good.

All in all, a nice picture that could be better but no doubt Annie had little time and no choice in the location. And the secret service men probably intimidated her. Unless you know the background: easy on Annie, everyone!

What do you think?

So how did the 7D do?

I shot an event yesterday, as said. In a club. A challenging environment.

More pics coming soon, but here’s one more, just to give you a taste of what a good camera and good glass can do.

TRIBE. 400 ISO, f/2.8, 1/60th, at 110mm (70-200 2.8L on a 7D), bounce flash

TRIBE. 400 ISO, f/2.8, 1/60th, at 110mm (70-200 2.8L on a 7D), bounce flash

I shot with two cameras:

  • The 1Ds MkIII with the wide lens (16-35 2.8L earlier, 35mm f/1.4 later)with a 580EX II flash.
  • The 7D with the long lens (70-200 2.8L) and a 430EX II flash.

And they did fine.

The 7D produced some wonderful images – to be posted here with technique tips in the next little while. I am very happy with it.

To start you off, some tips for club shooting:

  • Shoot wide. I needed f/1.4-f/2.8 at 1/30th or less at up to 1,600 ISO.
  • Bring a small LED flashlight so you can see your camera (thanks Alvin, for the tip)
  • Bring two cameras, one long for shots uch as the above, and one wide for the “grip and grins”. Wide should be 35mm on full frame or 24mm on crop cameras, and fast.
  • You can drag the shutter more if you have to.
  • Shoot people with some light in the background
  • Bring batteries
  • Bounce, or if you cannot, then use a Gary Fong lightsphere or a Honl bounce card with CTO gels

And of course: have fun.

Club shooting

Shot a club event last night. Wow, that was tough. No light and no bounce options, and inconsistent flash as a result. In the end, I used:

1Ds MkIII, 1600 ISO, f/1.4, 1/30th, Lightsphere

1Ds MkIII, 1600 ISO, f/1.4, 1/30th, Lightsphere

That is:

  • 1600 ISO
  • f/1.4
  • 1/30th second

That finally gave me the light I wanted. Without the 35mm f/1.4L lens I would have been dead in the water. The other shooters were having to aim their flashes straight at their subjects.. brrr.

Biggest problem all night by far: I could not see any of the controls on my camera. That is how dark it was. Rule of thumb: if you cannot see the camera controls, pictures will be difficult.