CUP

One of my workshops is called “Creative Urban Photography”. I take a group of students around Old Oakville for three hours to practice and hone their technical skills, and especially to practice their eye.

This is a great workshop, that I can recommend to all (go to your nearest Henrys to sign up for it).

The wonderful thing is to see what “Urban” means to people. To some it means this:

Paint flaking, by Michael Willems

Paint flaking, by Michael Willems

Bicycle, by Michael Willems

Bicycle, by Michael Willems

Photographers and mannequin, by Michael Willems

Photographers and mannequin

Or this, Oakville’s very genteel version of vandalism:

Phone box in Oakville, by Michael Willems

Phone box in Oakville, by Michael Willems

While to others, it means happy things like this:

Lonely yellow flower, by Michael Willems

Lonely yellow flower, by Michael Willems

And this:

Red, Yellow and Blue (bins), by Michael Willems

Red, Yellow and Blue (bins)

And this:

Flowers, by Michael Willems

Flowers

(Can you see how I am filing the frame in these images?)

Others yet have a theme like “churches” or “textures”. All good. The thing is, once you have a story, you are great. It does not matter what that story is, and no-one can tell you what it should be. It is your story. All I can tell you is that there should be one.  Random images are not as effective as images that try to tell a story, convey a viewpoint.

So next time, ask yourself what your story is. Once you know, you will fimd ways to portray that photographically.

IV

My “IV” photojournalistic work is featured on this month’s 180 ( http://180mag.ca/ ) style/art/fashion magazine. The first article in the July Issue.

IV - Intravenous, by Michael Willems

IV - Intravenous, by Michael Willems, on 180mag.ca

Go check it out. This is the work I am passionate about: showing worlds we do not normally see. Several of the images there are new and have never been seen.

Flash tip of the day

When you are using TTL flash (metered, automatic), you sometimes get too-dark foregrounds.

This can be because a setting is wrong, or because there is just not enough power available from your flash. It is important to know which one it is!

The settings that affect your flash brightness are:

  1. Aperture
  2. ISO
  3. Shutter, after a point (because exceeding the synch speed and using “fast flash” means you lose power)
  4. Distance
  5. Flash Power
  6. Flash zoom

My trick: to ascertain whether it can be done at all, fire a test shot using manual flash at full power!

  1. Set your camera to its max sync speed (eg 1/200th sec)
  2. Set flash to manual (take the flash off TTL and set it to M).
  3. Adjust it to full power (not TTL but M, and power at 1/1, or 100%).
  4. If your subject is centered, zoom in the flash head (lighting edges that have no subject only wastes power).

If your picture’s flash subject is now still too dark, it cannot be done. Open the aperture or get closer.

But if your flash subject is now blown out, it means your picture can be done with current distance. Go back to TTL, figure out what you are doing wrong, fix it, and try again!

Pic of the day

is one I just took on a training walk with a student, a pro photographer. I was showing flash effects:

Blue, Green, Yellow and Red, by Michael Willems

Blue, Green, Yellow and Red in Oakville

Underexposing the background gave me drama and saturated colours; flash gave me bright, poppy foreground. This picture is all about the colours.

What mode should I use?

The most common question I hear is “what lens should I buy?”.

Boy, that is a tough one – a bit like asking “what car should I drive”. The answer: “It depends”!

Almost as often, I hear “what exposure mode should I be on?”. That one is much easier.

Photographers taking photos in Oakville, photo by Michael Willems

WHAT MODE? Photographers taking photos in Oakville

I should start by saying that here too, of course the answer is “it depends”. So instead of giving you a canned answer, I am going to explain a bit about what modes I use in my daily photography practice.

And these are:

  • The green “Auto” mode: never – but I could use it if anyone asked “let me take your picture with your camera”. The green auto mode turns your expensive SLR into a point-and-shoot.
  • Scene modes (portrait, landscape, sports, etc): never. None of my cameras have these, but even if  they did, I would not use them. They are useful learning tools, and good for people with little experience, but they take a lot of power away from you, and you should learn how to do it yourself. Use them while learning, but as soon as possible, free yourself from these “canned” modes.
  • Program mode (P): occasionally, when I am in a hurry. Like when shooting while driving a car, or when covering a rapidly unfolding even where “get the shot” is the essence. P mode means the camera sets aperture and shutter, but you can override it in this and in many other aspects, like white balance and flash use.
  • Aperture Mode (A/Av): Almost always in many situations. When I am in an environment with changing light, I will likely use aperture mode. Because of what I shoot, I am in this mode maybe 70% of the time. Aperture is very important to me.
  • Shutter Speed Priority (S/Tv): when covering some sports. When I want to freeze or blur motion. Sure, those are obvious. But also when shooting flash outdoors and I want to be sure I do not exceed the flash sync speed. In those cases I often set my shutter to 1/250th second (the fastest flash sync speed, depending on which camera I am using) and I know that I will not be needing “Fast/Auto FP” flash, which reduces my power by at least half.
  • Manual (M): Always in studios. Always when shooting indoors flash. And usually when in a controlled environment. Manual (often combined with spot meter, incident light meter, and grey card) is my second most common mode.
  • Bulb: when shooting fireworks, or other events that take a long time and cannot be metered or timed.

So that means typically I might do this – a few examples:

  • Outdoor event: A/Av mode
  • Outdoor event with flash: S/Tv mode
  • Indoor event with flash: M
  • Studio: M
  • Outdoors rugby game: S
  • Indoors hockey game: M
  • Family snaps: A/Av
  • Product: M
  • Panning shots: S/Tv

Try them all, and learn how each mode works. Especially, do not underestimate Manual, where you get full control. You need to know what you are doing, but it pays to learn.