Colour match

I noticed the matching colour, here in the picture below.

It is always a good idea to look at colour while you are shooting. And you can learn to notice. Start like this: If anything strikes you: shoot!

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Harmonious colours, is how we describe colours that are close together (as opposed to contrasting colours, which are opposite, like red-green, or blue-yellow). The above shows harmonious colours. These strikes us as gentle, soft, understated, even.

Taken at “Tribe” on 24 October 2009.

That dreamy look

If you want portraits to have that dreamy look, use a lens with a wide aperture (a small F-number, like 2.8).

I took this picture yesterday, using a prime 35mm lens (the Canon 35mm f/1.4L) on a Canon 7D, at an aperture of f/2.5 and a shutter speed of 1/50th second.

That 35mm on a 1.6 crop factor camera is like 50mm on a traditional full frame camera. So it’s a “Nifty Fifty”.

A that focal length, I was able to go quite close to Mr Pumpkin without much distortion, as you can see.

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That gives you a very nice look. The close proximity combined with the f/2.5 aperture gives me nice soft bokeh (the creamy quality of the background blur). Even the back of the head is soft.

Beautiful: reason for a smile.

More Black and White tips

I love black and white, so I thought you might too – in which case you might be interested in the following Quick Tips:

  1. Use B&W when the image is too grainy. In B&W pictures, grain can add, rather than detract – or at least it is less distracting.
  2. Set your camera to B&W – even if you shoot RAW. It will not have any effect on the RAW image (at least, no permanent effect), but you will see what you are getting on your LCD display.
  3. If you shot JPG, shoot in Adobe colour, and convert to B&W later.
  4. Use Lightroom rather than other software to convert. Use the Lightroom Develop module’s HSL/Color/Grayscale tool.
  5. In this tool clock on Grayscale and adjust. Lightroom has a great way of doing the standard conversion.
  6. And now, still in that tool, adjust to taste. Add to the “red” and “orange” slider in order to make skin better. Use other controls as needed to add contrast between your subject and the background.

As an illustration, here is an image converted automatically:

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Here, I have butchered it (and me – ouch) by dragging ‘orange’ and ‘yellow’ down:

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Here, I have done more of an appropriate conversion:

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See what I mean? This is equivalent to the old red-yellow-green filters. Except much more interactive and much simpler.

Film Set Picture Tips

I have been playing with my new Canon 7D camera, shooting bits of high-def video. My God, high-def is good. Yes, and big.

And this video activity brings me to the following. A customer recently asked me: How would you take pictures on a film set?

I thought about this. If you have ever photographed a movie set, there is a good chance this experience was your last one. Or at least your last one on a film set. Because film sets are very intolerant of misbehaviour – even if you do not know the rules of misbehaviour. So to minimise the risks, here are a few tips. This is what I would do.

  • Be respectful. Stay in the background.
  • Unless you have cleared it with the powers that be, shoot with a wide open fast lens using available light. No flash (unless you are asked to, or at least have cleared it). A 50mm f/1.8 would be great on a crop camera for close-ups; or a 35mm f/1.4 on a full-frame camera.
  • Shoot when they are not actually filming. Meaning when they are rehearsing, or on breaks, or setting up, or taking down.
  • Like tennis or golf pros, movie pros are intolerant of noise, so use a small quiet point and shoot while they are actually filming, and turn off the sound.
  • Be sure to turn off the beeps on your cameras at all times. If your camera has a silent mode, use it.
  • Turn off your cell phone and anything else that might make a noise.
  • Shoot workers, minor stars, and other non-greats. They will be happy to be in the centre of attention, and it is easier. And having friends is always good. If not now, then later, when they are great.
  • When filming is going on, do not get into camera view, ever, ever.
  • Do not catch any actor’s attention while filming is on. You are like an Entebbe hostage: you do not want to be noticed.
  • Make the actors look great. Make the directors look powerful. Make the workers look experts. You are there not to cover news, but to make the people involved look wonderful.

If you follow all those rules, you will be fine, I think – so have a good time, and be re-invited.

Off topic

After I said yesterday that Apple should write the Canon UI. I am not so sure, having just discovered there is no way to set MONDAY to be the start of the week in the iPhone’s calendar. I can never find anything in month view with Sunday starting the week. Yes, you can set “international” to UK, but that messes up everything else, like phone numbers. What were they thinking?

Hold it.

In the last couple of days I used two new strap systems while shooting events: the BlackRapid R-strap (which I’ll review later) and the new Ezee Strap, pictured here:

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That strap sits on your shoulders (the leather part on your back), and the movable hooks attach to the camera through rings. The camera thus sits symmetrically in front of you. To take a picture, you simply raise it and it comes up.

The first thing that I felt after putting on the strap and attaching the camera: : nothing.

Meaning – instead of the usual effort and discomfort of holding a heavy camera like my 1Ds MkIII, it is effortless. So that’s good. Easiest way I’ve held a camera. Also – the camera stays in place,. It neither swings right and left, nor forward much when you bend over. This is great!

There are a few minuses, of course. The rings are metallic and they do scratch the camera hooks a bit. That’s minor so I can live with it. The strap is, quite frankly, cheaply made. But it does the job. And because it has two hooks, it is saferthan some of the other alternatives.

Also, the camera hangs exactly where your belt buckle is. But.. it raises so easily and effortlessly (even for vertical shots) – that this, too, is worth it. And finally, this strap is costly – but again, it does the job, so compared to a bad back…

So while there are some drawbacks, none of those are showstoppers. I plan to use this Ezee Strap in some more upcoming shoots, and will give you more feedback after those. So far, it looks like it will stay in my bag as a permanent fixture, and one that makes a big difference in shoots where I carry multiple cameras.