Moi, aujourd'hui.

Even in a snapshot, you want to;

  1. Avoid direct light (use reflected light instead).
  2. Use an off-centre composition (follow “the rule of thirds”).
  3. Blur the background, if the picture is a portrait.
  4. Straighten horizontal/vertical lines.
  5. Fill the frame.

If you do all that, your pictures will be better than Uncle Fred’s.

A standard portrait setup

Back to the standard “small studio” setup I described earlier. This time I shall talk a bit not about how it works – I assume light sensitive slave cells and Pocketwizards and cables are all old hat to you now – but instead, I will talk about how to use it.

As a reminder, here is such a four-light setup, again:

Four lights; and after the click, more about how you use them.

Continue reading

Try this fun technique

Have some fun with your photography.

  • Set your SLR to S/Tv mode
  • Select a shutter speed of 1/10th second.
  • Use minus one stop exposure compensation
  • Use a zoom lens
  • Use flash
  • Now get ready. Prefocus on your subject with your lens mid-range (eg on an 18-55mm lens, set to 35mm).
  • Zoom to telephoto, and then rapidly zoom out all the way. In the middle of this zooming action, click.

This is trial and error, but you will succeed in the end, with shots like this one, fo a student who recently kindly volunteered:

The flash “freezes” the subject, but your background shows the zooming effect.

Why photography costs money

Mainly because it breaks the photographer’s back.

Here is part of what I am bringing to a multiple corporate headshots session tomorrow:

This kit consists of:

  • One backdrop
  • Two rolls of backdrop paper, grey and white
  • One two-monolight set with three stands and two umbrellas
  • Two more monolights
  • Four lightstands with umbrellas for speedlites
  • Camera kit (lenses, a Canon 1Ds MkIII, etc)
  • Lighting kit with four speedlites, five Pocketwizards, modifiers, and much more.
  • Tripod

Not pictured:

  • a 60×80 softbox
  • a Canon 7D camera
  • a muslin backdrop
  • a stool for the subject to sit on.

I am now going to bed early, so that I can build strength!

The serious point, of course, is that when a photographer visits with a portable setup, he really carries with him a full studio and everything that includes.

Soon, the book

The book is progressing well. The only thing that is slowing down is all this work!

But it is delightful work. Last weekend, birthday shoots. This week, spot news. Thursday to Sunday: teaching. Tomorrow, a series of on-location executive portraits. Great and varied work.

On a forum recently, I asked some other pros what they would use in a given lighting situation. One of them wrote back: “You do this for a living so you shouldn’t have to ask. Do you want your clients to google you and find that you are asking questions”?

This person misunderstands the Internet and misunderstands the collaborative world we live in today.  Of course I ask, share, debate, weight: the moment you think you know it all, you stop developing.

So if you have questions here, please ask and let’s kick some ideas around. Whether you are just starting to develop as a photographer or whether you are a pro: never be afraid to ask.

Fluorescent

A word about shooting in fluorescent light.

Unlike Tungsten light, which stays on and glows in between cycles, Fluorescent flashes on and off 60 times a second or more.

This means two things to photographers:

  1. Light may vary during a cycle
  2. If the flashes are short, your shutter needs to be all open when they occur. Meaning you need to stay well below your flash sync speed.

The second is most obvious.

Look at these images, shot at 1/320th second just now:

See what’s happening? They vary and from top to bottom the brightness is different in both. This is because the (vertical!) shutter is not all open when the brief flash happens.

So when shooting fluorescent,

  • stay well below the sync speed
  • if possible, stay at a discrete multiple of the light flash frequency.

If you do not know what “discrete multiple” means (how would you – you’re not an engineer!) then just stay at 1/30th second (and often 1/60th will work as well). and you are safe in both cases!

Shooting hockey? Well then just shoot a lot, and you’ll get lucky for some images. Fortunately, hockey lights flash at a higher frequency, so the problem is much less common.

Misc

Backgrounds and sharpness and white balance: oh my!

I thought I would chat about some of the things that go through my mind when doing a portrait, like this one last night:

Questions like:

  • What camera and lens? In this case, the Canon 7D and a 50mm f/1.4 lens.
  • What settings? Well, manual at 100 ISO, 1/125th second, f/5.6 is my standard start point, as it was here.
  • What lighting setup? In this case, a standard two main lights (softbox main light on camera left, umbrella fill light on camera right) with a snooted hair light behind left, and a gridded gelled background light. Note that while the main lights were monolights, the background light was a small speedlite fired by a pocketwizard through a Flashzebra hotshoe cable.
  • What lighting ratio? In this case pretty flat, but usually more like a 3:1 key:fill ratio.
  • What body position? Usually angled, in this case toward the softbox.
  • What head position? In this case, straight on since the subject wanted it that way.
  • What colour background? In this case I used a blue-green gel from the new Honl Photo “Autumn” colour gel set.
  • What viewpoint? I carefully choose this by moving myself left and right, up and down, until the person looks best to me for the portrait wanted. If in doubt, I take multiple views and choose later.
  • What white balance? I set it to “Flash”, even when shooting RAW, just so I get OK views on the back of the camera.

That’s all there is to a quick snap like this, which took a few minutes – if that.

Eyeball it

You shoot RAW, perhaps (at least I hope you do). That means you need not worry about setting white balance while shooting.

So how do you set white balance in post-production?

Ideally, you include a grey card and use the dropper tool in Lightroom (if that is what you are using) to take a neutral reading off this. But if you do not have a grey card in the photo?

Look at a student who kindly agreed to be the subject of a test picture. One: the original photo

Two: after I take a white balance off the eyeballs:

Three: as a personal preference, since I like warmer light I then always drag the colour temperature slider to a slightly higher temperature (a slightly warmer light):

And hey presto – done.

This is quicker than doing it on the camera, and more accurate, and you do not waste your subject’s time.

Sim. Pli. Fy.

Here’s a snapshot (of a student the other day, who kindly let me take this image to demonstrate how not to do it):

Not bad.. but look at all the distraction.  This person has doorhandles growing out of his head. A chair growing out of his neck.  This is a typical “Uncle Fred” snapshot.

The solution?

  1. Look. Observe the antennas growing out of heads; the garbage cans in the background. Only after seeing them can you work on removing them.
  2. Move. By moving yourself a few inches you can make a huge difference to your subject’s background. A circle has 360 degrees, not one. And not every shot has to be taken from 5.5 ft above the ground.
  3. Zoom in: “fill the frame”. Get closer.
  4. Blur the background if it is distracting.

And then you get this:

Rather better, no?