Fun with Gels 3

I shot a night club yesterday.

Dark (black) walls, low light, stark modern furniture, not easy to shoot.

First, I used a wide angle lens (16-35 on a full frame camera). That got me the ability to get it all in, as well as freedom from focus and shake worries (the wider a lens, the easier it is to shoot at low speeds and the easier it is to focus on everything). I used a tripod, so the low speeds did not matter, but the focus all the more.

Available light was dull. Like this:

Berlin Night Club in Oakville, using simple light

Night Club using simple light

So I got out my bag of tricks:

  • A Pocketwizard on the camera
  • Four small flashes with pocketwizards: for the next shot I used one 430EX through a white umbrella and one direct, equipped with a red Honl Photo gel.
  • I set the flashes’ power levels manually, using simple trial and error and the histogram.

Now I got this:

Berlon Nightclib using two flashes

Nightclub using speedlights and gels

Isn’t that much more interesting?

Same here in the following picture. First, with just the flash in the umbrella:

Not bad, but a bit like a furniture catalog. How about with a nice red gelled flash also:

More like a club where things are happening.

The following shows part of my setup for another part of the room, with alcoves:

Light setup with multiple=

Which, when properly positioned, got me pictures like this:

Nightclub lit with multiple=

Look at the stool’s legs: do you see how much difference that red accent makes?

Later still I used a white umbrella plus a red gelled 430, a Honl Folies Purple gelled 430EX in the dance cubicle upstairs, and a red plus an egg-yellow gelled 430 as well. All of this done with Honl gels and Honl speedstraps.

Before:

..and after:

Of course some scenery needed no gels to pretty it up, just one bounce flash:

I did have to move her to the right where the bar had a small ceiling area to bounce off.

Reader question: Focus

RG, a regular reader, asks:

I just still struggle getting my subject in sharp focus.

I shoot in Auto Focus mode on my Canon Rebel XSi (usually in Program Mode). I manually select my “red” indicator and try my best to focus on what I want sharp. But what do I focus on when my subject doesn’t fall neatly on one of the AF points? I tried to pick the nearest one to my subject — sometimes it comes in focus, sometimes not.

If I am taking a portrait of two people’s faces and they are cheek-to-cheek — sometimes one face is sharp while the other is not! Annoying! In that case, where do I place the red mark on?

Great questions. And the answer comes in three parts: motion blur, focus blur, and depth of field.

Let me start by saying “it’s not just you”. Everyone struggles with focus. I do, too.

  1. One important reason is that we are more critical today than in the past – we zoom in. Take your blurry picture and print it at 4×6 and it will probably look just great!
  2. We take many more pictures in low light, where we would not have tried in the past.
  3. We have two distinct kinds of blur: focus blur and motion blur. They are easy to confuse.

So then let’s start with motion blur. Your first picture’s unsharpness was mainly due to motion blur: it’s a shaky picture. It was taken at 1/30th at f/1.8 on a 50mm lens. The 50mm lens works like an 80mm lens on your Canon Digital Rebel. To get sharp pictures, a rough rule of thumb is: “stay at one divided by the ‘real’ lens length – preferably twice that”. So you should be at 1/80th second, maybe even 1/160th second, when handheld. 1/30th is  pushing it. No problem trying, but steady the camera, lock it onto your face, don’t breathe, and take the picture ten times, then pick the sharpest one. Or… use a tripod. Or go up to a higher ISO value to increase the shutter speed.

Now to focus blur. The second picture is blurred mainly due to focus: the closer part of the girl’s clothing is sharp while her face is not. That could also be motion (her motion this time – not yours; she is turning her head) but it is to a large extent it is focus.

You are focusing with one focus point: this is always the way to do it! But what if there is no focus point where your subject is?

How, in other words, do you take a picture like this?

Selective focus

Focus-recompose-shoot

Actually that is quite simple and I want you to reproduce that picture now. Use a technique called “focus – recompose – shoot”:

  1. Select a focus point near the subject;
  2. Aim that focus point at the subject;
  3. Focus by pressing half way down. Wait for the beep that indicates “in focus”. A green dot appears too, at the same time.
  4. Hold your finger there – do NOT let go! But also do not push all the way down.
  5. Now recompose the picture (while still holding your finger down).
  6. Now finally push down to take the picture

Hah – your hand is now still sharp, since pushing half way and holding your finger there locked the focus distance, until you either let go or push down.

Finally to depth of field. What if you want more than one thing to be sharp?

  1. Use Aperture mode (Av), and select a not-too-small Av Number. f/1.8 will give you very very shallow, selective, depth of field. f/5.6 gives you much more sharpness (but slower speed); f/16 and much of your picture is sharp (but now even longer shutter speed so you must use a tripod and tell people to not move).
  2. Aim at a point in the middle, So if you have to shoot three rows of hockey kids, focus on a kid in the middle.

So now you know how to avoid blur, how to focus accurately, and how to get enough in focus.

All you need to do know – and you know what I am going to say: practice!

Manual

Interesting word,”manual”.

And one where a bit of disambiguation is called for, I think. I quite often hear students say “I am on manual”, or even “I am on automatic”, without understanding what this means.

OK, I am repeating myself – but I think I should, because this is such a misunderstood subject – and so often.

There are, you see, many meanings of “manual”, and they are not at all the same – not even close. They are in fact not even related. First, manual refers to a handbook, or even a hand.

And in cameras, we have:

  1. Manual exposure mode. This is the big dial on your camera. This turns the setting of your camera’s Aperture and Shutter Speed to manual (you set them, not the camera). But note, flash is still fully metered!
  2. Manual focus. This means turning the lens yourself to get accurate focus.
  3. Manual focus spot selection. This means you select the focus spot for autofocus – not the camera.
  4. Manual flash power. This  means no TTL metering occurs, but instead you set the flash to some power level you determine (like 1/4 or 1/32nd)
  5. Manual flash zoom. This means the angle the flash distributes its light across: it is normally automatic but you can also set it by hand (“35mm”, or “70mm”).
  6. Manual ISO (as opposed to “Auto”)
  7. Manual White Balance (e.g. a predetermined mode of degrees Kelvin,like 3200K).

None of these have anything whatsoever to do with any of the others. They are independent and unrelated. So never say “manual” without saying manual what. A sentence like “my flash is fixed power, because my focus spot selection is on manual” is meaningless, as is “autofocus does not work because my metering is on manual”.

Flash Modifiers, when to use: 1 – The Fong Thing

Some photographers love the Gary Fong lightsphere because it throws light everywhere and makes it simple to shoot. Others hate it because it throws non-directional light, meaning “no art”.

They are both right. Every modifier has a range of situations where you use it, and a range where you do not use it. The key is not just to learn how to use a modifier, but it is to learn when to use it in the first place, and when not to.

So the Fong Lightsphere is a modifier that:

    1. You put on your flash
    2. Aim upward
    3. Use without the dome if you have a white ceiling; else use with the dome (the round side down).
    4. And which then throws the light everywhere.

      And I mean everywhere. Left, right, up, down, front, behind: photons bathe the room. And reflect off anything that can reflect. Which is the Lightsphere’s benefit.

      It is therefore good to use in situations where:

      1. It is dark.
      2. It is impossible to find a good bounce wall/ceiling behind you. A good wall/ceiling is almost always preferable if you can find it.
      3. You are looking for anything to get light into the room: you are not interested in artistically shaping light.

      Like in this unedited image of the Wendel Clark restaurant I shot yesterday:

      Using a Gary Fong Lightsphere

      Using a Gary Fong Lightsphere to light a restaurant

      Note that I was using my Gary Fong Lightsphere on a separate flash in my left hand, aimed at the ceiling. I was using TTL to fire that flash from the one on my 1Ds camera. Yes, you develop strong hands as a photographer – that, and arthritis.

      That off-camera use is a key technique for me: I often like to use the Fong off-camera to give me at least a little bit of shaping.

      Here’s another picture from that shoot:

      Wendel Clark Restaurant lit with an off-camera Lightsphere

      Using a Lightsphere

      So while as you all know I normally much prefer the Honl lightshapers – they allow me artistic control over where the light goes – “trendy venues” is a prime case where I use the Fong Lightsphere.Because Trendy Venues have no simple walls or ceilings, and those that there are tend to be black. So you need to bounce those photons off anything that wiull reflect them, anywhere in the room. Enter the Fong Thing.

      What does the Fong Thing look like: Here’s me with one on the camera.

      Blog Tips

      A few tips for blog-followers:

      1. I blog every day. Um.. every day, yes. So that means I am likely to have written about an issue in the past. Always try to search – for your convenience, the search field is now at the top, on the right.
      2. Subscribe to this blog (also on the right, if you scroll down just a bit), so the blog will automatically email you when I publish a post. That way you do not have to remember come here, which you may forget.
      3. Try to look at categories. Or at keywords. Scroll down and select category or enter keyword. You may see patterns, and reading multiple articles can shed real light on a subject.
      4. Send me questions. I try to answer them all, often on the blog.

      And “off-blog”:

      • Take a few workshops or courses. As you know, apart from shooting (for newspapers, corporations, and so on) I teach photography. Both on my own and with colleagues like the incredibly talented Gregory Talas and Joseph Marranca, aimed at more advanced users; and at Henry’s School of Imaging, aimed at beginners. Photography is easy to learn now. Yes, it is still work – perfecting anything takes time – but it is much easier than in the film days.
      • Joseph and I are doing a full-day “advanced flash” workshop in Mono, Ontario (an hour north of Toronto) on May 30: see the details here and sign up today to advanced your Flash knowledge.

      I hope to continue to help you all for many more years. Any raves are welcome, too, by the way (as are tips in the tip jar).

      And you can really help by spreading the word: the more people here, the more useful this gets for everyone.

      But most of all, enjoy. This blog, but especially, photography.

      Manual redux

      When do you shoot manual – remember that question?

      One example of a case: when the light is constant (cloudy day), and when you need to shoot things that vary in brightness, and some of which are dark or bright, like monument and people in black uniforms.

      Navy Commemoration

      A solemn moment at a Burlington, Ont. Navy Commemoration Service

      In other words, like in the shoot I did for The Burlington Post Sunday.

      See  yesterday: you would have to change exposure all the time by varying exposure compensation constantly. “manual” means I can concentrate on what to shoot, not on technical details.

      Why I use 1-series cameras

      They don’t do anything more than a Digital Rebel. But they do do it better sometimes, and that is important when you shoot for a living. They are more waterproof and more shockproof and shoot faster. And they have several other neat functions that can really matter.

      Look at this shot here, from a commercial shoot I just did:

      Entertainment Central, Oakville

      Entertainment Central, Oakville

      No idea what happened to the bottom right corner: bad sector on the disk, perhaps?

      That is why the 1-series cameras, like my 1D Mark IV and my 1Ds Mark III, can write to two memory cards at once. I always do this. Sometimes the same format to both, sometimes large RAW to one and small RAW or even JPG to the other. That way I still have one when the other one has a problem.

      If you do not have a 1-series or similar camera that can write to two cards, what do you do?

      • Change memory cards regularly
      • Format them every time you re-insert into the camera
      • of course, backup, backup, backup.

      But you knew that.

      Snapshot of the day

      And I mean snapshot: shot the other day while I was a passenger on The Danforth, getting some quick and excellent Greek food:

      Danforth at night

      The Danforth at night

      The wide lens (16mm on a 1Ds MkIII) works well, and the warm street light makes the sky look extra blue, and it was dark enough to match nicely, so the sky looks rather threatening.Yes I know, I can see windscreen reflections – that’s why it is a snapshot.

      Black and white

      And this time I do not mean “as opposed to colour”. I am repeating myself here, but it is worth doing: a few words about metering light and how your camera does it, and how to fix it when it does a less than stellar job. I get so many questions abut this, it seems worth going over it again.

      Let’s analyze this exposure puzzle. It has three elements.

      ONE. Your camera’s light meter is a reflective meter. It measures light reflected off your subject. So it does not know how much light is hitting your subject – it only knows how much is reflected. That is one part of the puzzle.

      TWO. Your camera also does not know what the subject is. That is the second part of the puzzle.

      THREE. Your camera’s job is to:

      1. See how much light there is
      2. Then set aperture, shutter, ISO (or some of those – depending on what exposure mode you are in) to ensure that that observed quantity of light gives you a well-exposed picture: not too bright, not too dark. This is a narrow range of acceptable light on your sensor: a bit too little and it’s underexposed; a tad too much and it’s overexposed. Your camera’s job is to keep the light on your sensor within that range.

      That is the third part of the puzzle.

      So let’s put them together.

      Usually, they go together well and you get a nice picture of whatever you are aiming at. Done.

      But when does this not work? When your subject is meant to be dark – because it is. Or when your subject is meant to be bright – because it is.

      Exercise. in Program mode “P”), and using no flash, and taking care to fully fill your viewfinder with it, shoot a ski hill. Or a white sheet of paper made to look like one:

      Looks grey! Because that is the camera’s job.

      Now shoot a coal mine. Or a coat that is as black as one:

      What the… that also looks grey!

      That is because the camera does not know it is meant to be black. By default, your camera makes everything “in between” in terms of brightness.

      Solution. Now find the Exposure Compensation button on your camera. It looks like a “+” and a “-” with a diagonal line separating them. Plus means “turn up the brightness”, minus means “turn down the brightness”. (It does this by varying whatever it is varying of shutter speed, aperture or ISO, but only “more so”). You may have to hold the button while turning a wheel, and you can see what you are doing as a number or as a graph on the top of back of your camera, depending on which camera you have.

      Find the control and turn the value up to +2 and re-shoot the ski hill. Now you get:

      That’s better. Check the histogram to ensure it is not stuck against the right side (“overexposed”).

      Now set the Exposure Compensation to -2 (minus two). Re-shoot the black coat. You get this:

      Finally. A black coat!

      So now you know:

      • When your picture looks too dark, use +/- set to plus and retake the picture
      • When your picture looks too bright, use +/- set to minus and retake the picture
      • This is most likely to be needed when your subject is very dark (coal mine, black coat, dark night) or very bright (beach, snow, white marble room, piece of paper, person against a white wall).

      That is actually quite simple!

      Notes:

      • Do not use flash – that’s a separate subject (and it has a separate adjustment)
      • You can also spot meter to a grey subject to avoid the need for exp comp
      • You can use manual and use the displayed meter in the same way (minus mens darker, plus means brighter).

      Try it and you should, from now on, have no problem exposing right.

      See the light!

      Tip of the day:

      To see the colour of the light you are shooting in, to really see it, take a first test-shot in every shoot with the white balance set to daylight (the sun symbol). That will show you the real colour of the light. Then you can take it from there.

      You can judge by yourself, by looking at the back of  your camera, or you can look at the colour histogram, if your camera supports that.