Staff in several photography stores have been mistakenly saying that the Canon 600EX flash cannot be used as a master with 430EX slaves.

Wrong. It certainly can. Proof:

A 430EX acting as slave to the 600EX on my camera.

The 600EX has both radio-controlled remote abilities, and light-controlled abilities like the previous generation. You can choose which type to use: set it to light control and it’s just like a 580EX flash.

Rumour debunked, I hope.

Today, a further hardware tip.

One of the lenses I had looked at by Keno-san of Canada Camera Repair (see prior post) was my 50mm f/1.2L prime lens. It was never the sharpest, and I figured a $2,000+ lens should be pretty sharp even wide open. The inspection turned into a repair, but not a very expensive one – under $175 for the repair, including a new rear lens element.

Good news: it is indeed sharper than before: I can now use this lens in available light situations. (The lesson in this: lenses should last forever and a well adjusted lens is worth having – lenses are therefore worth inspecting and repairing.)

Here’s a handheld (both) shot at f/1.2:

And detail:

The testing process also prompts me to remind you of a few important things:

1. First of all: Do not be too critical. 50mm at f/1.2 is silly if you want more than a few millimeters of depth of field.
2. Best use a lens test kit.
3. Use a very small focus area to test focus. I used the “spot focus” option on the 1Dx.
4. Focus elsewhere, then come back and focus on your subject
5. Eliminate shake issues by using a tripod or fast shutter speed.
6. Avoid “fully open”. Every lens is better when stopped down a little. That is why you buy an f/1.2 lens: not just to use at f/1.2, but also so it’s sharp at, say, f/2.0. (just like an f/1.8 lens would be sharp perhaps at f/2.8).
7. Learn how consistent any issues are. A little back focus is fine, for instance, if your camera has a micro-adjust setting. But only if it is consistent.
8. Focus in bright light. Use your center focus point; have the camera perpendicular to the surface you are focusing on.
9. Focus is dependent on aperture, on distance from your subject, and on light intensity. If I adjust for close-by shots in my office, I need -15 on this lens; but at a distance, zero is what is needed. You need to adjust to an average that reflects what you shoot. Like (1 metre distance at f/2.8 in bright open shade”. Yes, this is complicated!

I used this setup:

That gets me to a micro-adjustment of around -15 for close-by shots (on a scale of -20 to +20): I focused on the “o”.

As said, this is complex. I would keep it simple; avoid shooting too wide open, shoot at least 1 metre away, say; and adjust lenses to an average (for you) situation.

For my 50mm lens, the conclusion is clear: “When shooting wide open, if the subject is very close by, apply a -10 to -15 micro-adjustment. But for subjects far away, or for shots at f/4 or smaller, apply no auto-adjustment. By default, therefore, leave it off.”

Yes, this stuff is indeed complicated. But so is flying an airplane: complexity is sometimes necessary for best results.

Today, a post about hardware.

I am selling my 1Ds Mark 3 (see this ad here), because 1 1Dx, a 7D, and a 1Ds is one camera too many – two will do.

At the same time, I am doing a general cleanup. I recommend you do the same. This includes:

1. Checking what I do not need anymore and getting rid of it or selling it.
2. Organizing to pack things where they should go.
3. Checking for common faults, like screws on lens bases coming undone (see an earlier post!).
4. Checking for missing items (filters, battery covers, etc) and replacing those.
5. Having all my lenses checked or repaired if needed. If you are in the Toronto area: Kino-san of camerarepair Canada does a great job and is very charming – and knowledgeable.
6. Replacing batteries on Pocketwizards (these are Alkaline: they need to last without being used).
7. Recharging all my NiMH batteries also.
8. Cleaning all my equipment! First the outside, with a brush. Then inside if there is mirror dust – with a blower. Lenses too! And then, if I must, the sensors – with a blower first, then with antistatic brushes or wet pads (in that order) if I really have to.
9. Making sure I have all serial numbers recorded
10. Making and storing a picture of each piece of equipment for insurance purposes.

And then I am done, ready for the fall and winter shoots. Looks like I am shooting a lot of events, food, interiors, portraits, and Bat Mitzvah parties this month and next.  And you can hire me too, by the way – for photography or fort private training)!

But it all starts with a well-organized equipment.