Since you asked:

Here are some shots at 100-800 ISO from both the 1Ds Mark III and the 7D. Studio, and to get to the next step, I just changed both ISO and Aperture up in both cases each time.

The shots below are a crop detail from this setup, lit with one umbrella and one softbox fired with pocketwizards. I used a 35mm prime lens on the 7D, and a 50mm prime on the 1Ds MkIII, in order to get the same field of view.

Important – click on each image to see a pixel-for-pixel real-size preview.

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So here we start at 100 ISO:

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7D- 100 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 100 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 100 ISO

Now take a look at 200 ISO:

7D - 200 ISO

7D - 200 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 200 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 200 ISO

Now up to 400 ISO:

7D - 400 ISO

7D - 400 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 400 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 400 ISO

And finally, 800 ISO. Now we start to see noise, but keep in mind, these are real-sized crops. In reality, even at 8″x10″ you would see little.

7D - 800 ISO

7D - 800 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 800 ISO

1Ds MkIII - 800 ISO

Free: a 580EX MkII flash

I taught some wedding pros Advanced Flash last night. I used my 7D:

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And I was struck again by one major reason I bought a 7D: I can now, just like the Nikon users, drive my external flashes from the popup. That means my 580, which used to sit on top of the camera, is now my off-camera key light instead.

This is pretty major – it reduces the price of the 7D by $500+, because essentially I now get an extra 580EX flash free of charge.

And you can set separate ratios for built-in vs. external, and much more. This is a very major overhaul of the flash system – I can now use the 7D whenever I uses multiple strobes, since the 1D MKII and 1Ds MKIII do not have a popup flash. And no other Canon offers the option to drive TTL flashes from the popup.

Self portrait

How do I take one of these with my new 7D?

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I set the camera on a tripod and use pocketwizards to fire one flash into an umbrella. One flash gives me that severe look, but to slightly lessen that, I have a reflector on the other side (camera left). I used a 35mm f/1.4L lens on the 7D, meaning an effective lens length of about 50mm. The “Nifty fifty”!

I set my camera to 100 ISO – best quality, and background light does not upset the shot. And I am in manual mode, at f/8 (enough DOF) and 1/125th second. I use autofocus where the camera selects a focus point, This time. I will – because as the subject I cannot see what I am doing.

Finally, I use the timer of course. So I can press the shutter while I hold my hand out; then sit down as the camera beeps.

And then I check: sharp enough? Nice graduated tones from dark to light? Catchlights in the eyes? Check!

I'm a sharp freak.

Here I stand before you: I cannot deny it. I like sharp. Really sharp.

So when I go do some street shots, such as this portrait I shot outdoors after I shot a bookstore yesterday, I am delighted when the 7D, equipped with the 35mm f/1.4 lens, gives me this (and you should click and then view it at original size: don’t let your PC or Mac downsize it):

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(1/125th sec, f/4.5, 200 ISO)

That’s what a good camera and a good lens does. And shooting that street stuff yesterday, I was impressed with how sharp the focus is in most of my images – the focus system really is better tan that on my 1Ds3/1D3. Here’s another example:

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Nice car.

Why oh why..

…are studio flash pictures so much sharper than available light pictures? Like, always?

Whatever you do, available light may look great – but when you zoom in close, it is not perfect.

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Studio is much better. Look at this picture I just took with my Canon 7D at f/11, 1/125th sec, 100 ISO, using two studio strobes driven by a pair of Pocketwizards:

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Zoom in and it is spectacular. This is the original size (once you click), and utterly unaltered:

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Why is this so much better?

Let me tell you some differences. I count six:

  1. Aperture – Studio light means f/8. Available light means f/2.8. Lenses are typically sharper and clearer at f/5.6-f/8.
  2. ISO – Available light means higher ISO. Lower ISO, like in a studio, means sharper pictures.
  3. Shutter speed – Flash is around 1/1000th second. Available light pictures, even at 1/250th second, will not be as clear.
  4. Tripod – In a studio you are likely to be using a tripod. This is huge, in terms of focus and motion.
  5. Light direction – Studio flash is directional. Available light is diffuse. So surfaces look clearer.
  6. Exposure – In a studio, you are likely to expose to the right – the pixels will be bright pixels. Bright pixels are sharp pixels!

So it is not so much one factor. It is the combination of all of them. In a studio you have all of them your way; in available light, many, sometimes all, are not ideal. That is why studio flash is so much crisper.

Have I left anything out, anyone?

Rock on

So today I was able to help 1,000 people with digital SLR knowledge, Travel Photography tips, and Lightroom and RAW  introduction.

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This is my favourite activity: to help people of varying backgrounds and with varying degrees of knowledge with their photography skills. It is such a thrill to make your life part of eternity by committing it to paper (well – to bits) that I feel privileged to help people do it. I mean that: how many of you have good pictures of your parents? with a little knowledge, you can!

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My mission: to make Canada the best country in the world in terms of photographic knowledge. And you know what: I think we really have a shot at it. Pun intended.

For those of you who have not been yet: Saturday and Sunday, in the International Centre next to Toronto Airport, and every vendor of photographic equipment, services, and anything else is there. And I am there every day speaking.

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If you know me and need a ticket, email. Else, it’s worth ten times the small price of admission. See you there!

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Oh – of course al these snaps were taken with the Canon 7D. In next to no light, I might add.

Focus on focus

I recently bought a Canon 7D camera.

The reason I bought another camera when I have two pro bodies already? Amongst many other reasons: The 7D focuses better, while my Canon 1Ds MkIII and 1D MkIII cameras do not focus consistently well when shooting “wide open”. When I use a “fast” lens, one with a large aperture/small “F-number”, set to, say, f/1.4 or f/2, focus is inconsistent.

And I shoot carefully. I use one focus point. The subject is contrasty and well lit. I am shooting at a shutter speed of ten times lens length (e.g. if using the 35mm lens, I am at least at 1/350th second). And yet – out of every five images shot like that, one or two are razor sharp, some are pretty good, and one will be blurry – focus blur, with the focus way out.

This appears to be well documented online. “Fake Chuck” writes about it regularly, like here.  Another post here also mentions Canon’s sloppy soft focus versus Nikon’s razor sharp focus:

All the Canon’s, all the way back to the Canon D30 deliver that famous soft focus look. Is it because Nikon (and now Sony) use a CCD sensor for focus and Canon uses a CMOS for focus?? If so, change it. if not, get rid of the trademark Canon soft focus once and for all. Nikon is so sharp it bites. Why?

One other issue is that my cameras tend to pre-focus when the lens is wide open. But less when it is not wide open.

Clearly, we need critically accurate focus if we are to shoot at f/1.4 (and that is why we spend thousands of dollars on f/1.4 lenses). And it can be done.

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I still shoot Canon, because I like the lens range and because I have over $25,000 invested in Canon equipment, such as my lenses:

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If, like me, you like to shoot wide open, I would recommend you do the following, apart from the obvious “shoot fast, use one focus point, look for non-equivocal focus areas”:

  • Use a tripod.
  • Use flash (or studio strobes).
  • Avoid being confused by the LCD display. On the 7D this shows sharp pictures. The low-level LCD on the 1D makes everything look blurry, especially when you zoom in all the way. Don’t be confused by this. It’s blurry when your PC or Mac shows  blur, not before.
  • Avoid wide open. At f/2.8 and above, it’s much better.
  • Take multiple photos of the same subject: one is bound to be sharp.
  • Live with some out-of-focus shots. As long as the rest are good.
  • Use the brightest possible light. Low light seems to make the camera focus less accurately, or a last differently.
  • Did I mention a tripod?

So, does the 7D do better? So far I am happier. It is not perfect: a few out of focus pictures so far when I am shooting wide open. But so far my impression is: “significantly better”. The new focus modes help, of course (spot focus in particular).

So.. stay tuned. And have fun, and do not worry too much about sharp focus.